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by Woody Woodworth of High Country Store
Issue 180 - 4/11/05
BUILDING A NEW GARDEN
Building a new garden is an exciting and rewarding experience. The success of your new garden is greatly increased by following a few guidelines and basic principals. Plants you choose play a key role in determining how full your garden will appear right now and what it may look like in the near future. Below are a few suggestions to help you along the way.
In selecting a site for your new garden, consider the amount of sun or shade exposure your plants will get. Observe the new site by watching the morning, mid-day and evening light. In Colorado, fi ve to six hours of sun is considered full sun, two to five hours is thought of as sun to partial shade and less than two hours, more shade. Most shade loving plants desire less than one hour of our hot, dry climate. Use plants that thrive in proper light conditions to ensure success.
The single, most important thing you can give your new garden is good soil to grow in. Plants live in various soil types but will thrive if you amend your soil with a composted material. The type of soil you have will determine which compost you will use. Clay soils need to be broken up to provide more air to the plant roots, sandy and rocky soils need to retain more moisture in the root zone. Consult with your local garden center for information on the many types of soil amendments and which ones are best suited for your location.
Consider height and color of flowers or foliage when selecting plants for your new site. Set taller plants towards the rear or off to the sides of the garden if it backs up to a fence or structure. Place tall plants in the center of the garden if the site can be viewed from all directions. Use raised beds to achieve an even greater height or select plants that grow tall such as vines and ornamental grasses. Some variegated foliage mixed in with flowering perennials offer a unique look. Mix wide leaf and slim, narrow leaf plants to achieve texture and depth. Pick colors that compliment one another as you would if decorating in your home. A splash of purple or blue next to yellows and oranges make beautiful combinations.
Choose plants that use the same water consumption to help make watering easy. Most succulents and sedums are drought tolerant plants that require little water and should be planted in the same areas. Provide drip lines or efficient sprinklers on timers to avoid over watering and wasting our precious water resources. Simple, battery-operated timers and drip irrigation supplies are available at most garden centers to help you convert sprinkler lines to drip irrigation easily.
Use natural bark mulches to help keep moisture levels up and weeds in control. By adding three or four inches of a finer style forest mulch, you will save on the amount of watering needed to maintain plants at the root zone. Use small, medium or larger cedar bark mulches around perennials, shrubs and trees to help control unwanted garden weeds and to make pulling weeds easy.
Add flare to your new garden by using a piece of statuary, birdbath, unusual rock or other natural products as a focal point to compliment plants. A small fountain is easy to maintain - the running water is soothing to the ears and it will attract birds and wildlife to your garden. Too many rocks will add more heat to your garden, so be aware of increased evaporation rates.
Be sure to think of the future and know how large your plants will grow as they become mature. If you over plant, you can always move those that are crowding others to a new garden and start again.
BUILDING A NEW GARDEN
Building a new garden is an exciting and rewarding experience. The success of your new garden is greatly increased by following a few guidelines and basic principals. Plants you choose play a key role in determining how full your garden will appear right now and what it may look like in the near future. Below are a few suggestions to help you along the way.
In selecting a site for your new garden, consider the amount of sun or shade exposure your plants will get. Observe the new site by watching the morning, mid-day and evening light. In Colorado, fi ve to six hours of sun is considered full sun, two to five hours is thought of as sun to partial shade and less than two hours, more shade. Most shade loving plants desire less than one hour of our hot, dry climate. Use plants that thrive in proper light conditions to ensure success.
The single, most important thing you can give your new garden is good soil to grow in. Plants live in various soil types but will thrive if you amend your soil with a composted material. The type of soil you have will determine which compost you will use. Clay soils need to be broken up to provide more air to the plant roots, sandy and rocky soils need to retain more moisture in the root zone. Consult with your local garden center for information on the many types of soil amendments and which ones are best suited for your location.
Consider height and color of flowers or foliage when selecting plants for your new site. Set taller plants towards the rear or off to the sides of the garden if it backs up to a fence or structure. Place tall plants in the center of the garden if the site can be viewed from all directions. Use raised beds to achieve an even greater height or select plants that grow tall such as vines and ornamental grasses. Some variegated foliage mixed in with flowering perennials offer a unique look. Mix wide leaf and slim, narrow leaf plants to achieve texture and depth. Pick colors that compliment one another as you would if decorating in your home. A splash of purple or blue next to yellows and oranges make beautiful combinations.
Choose plants that use the same water consumption to help make watering easy. Most succulents and sedums are drought tolerant plants that require little water and should be planted in the same areas. Provide drip lines or efficient sprinklers on timers to avoid over watering and wasting our precious water resources. Simple, battery-operated timers and drip irrigation supplies are available at most garden centers to help you convert sprinkler lines to drip irrigation easily.
Use natural bark mulches to help keep moisture levels up and weeds in control. By adding three or four inches of a finer style forest mulch, you will save on the amount of watering needed to maintain plants at the root zone. Use small, medium or larger cedar bark mulches around perennials, shrubs and trees to help control unwanted garden weeds and to make pulling weeds easy.
Add flare to your new garden by using a piece of statuary, birdbath, unusual rock or other natural products as a focal point to compliment plants. A small fountain is easy to maintain - the running water is soothing to the ears and it will attract birds and wildlife to your garden. Too many rocks will add more heat to your garden, so be aware of increased evaporation rates.
Be sure to think of the future and know how large your plants will grow as they become mature. If you over plant, you can always move those that are crowding others to a new garden and start again.
Issue 181 - 4/18/04
SOIL NUTRIENTS
Pick a Letter First things first, what do those numbers and letters on the bags and bottles mean? NPK stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – the three “macronutrients” that make up plant food. Nitrogen is responsible for lush leaf growth (the green parts of plants), while phosphorous and potassium are required for root growth, flower and fruit development, stem strength, and overall plant health. They are expressed in percentages on the fertilizer label: For instance, 10-10-10 means 10% each of N, P, and K, in that order. The remaining 70% of what’s in the bag are inert ingredients. Those strange sounding products on the shelves are simply sources of one or more of those macronutrients.
Here’s a rundown:
FISH EMULSION Don’t tell your pet goldfi sh, but fi sh emulsion is an excellent all-around garden fertilizer for your organic garden. Derived from seafood waste products (fi sh heads, entrails, and so on), it’s a complete fertilizer meaning that it contains N, P, and K. It comes in liquid form that’s water soluble, which means it works quickly and is easy to apply either to the soil or the foliage. And it’s organic. It’s one drawback? It stinks, so you may not want to use it for houseplants, although it works well on those too.
COTTONSEED MEAL Another complete organic fertilizer, cottonseed meal is what’s left over after the oil is pressed from cottonseed. The resulting cottonseed cake is used as livestock feed; however, some of it gets moldy, and that’s turned into fertilizer. Unlike fi sh emulsion cottonseed meal is insoluble in water, meaning it has to be mixed into the garden soil.
BONE MEAL Bone meal is a byproduct of the slaughterhouse. It is an organic source of phosphorous. It’s not watersoluble and needs to be tilled into the soil – you can’t just sprinkle it over the surface. It’s slow acting, but it’s also long lasting – several years at least. Generally recommended for new landscapes or if your soil has been tested and found to be low in phosphorous.
BLOOD MEAL A fantastic source of nitrogen (12%) that just so happens to also come from the slaughterhouses. It’s organic, and it’s fairly water soluble, so it is easy to use and fast-acting in the garden. There is no smell. However, it is not a complete fertilizer, just a source of nitrogen, so its usually used to quickly “green up” turf, plants and shrubs, or in conjunction with sources of phosphorus and potassium to make a complete fertilizer.
SUPER PHOSPHATE This is a nonorganic source of phosphorous that works exactly like bone meal. Triple super phosphate is also available; it contains a higher percentage of active ingredient.
POTASH Potash is an organic source of potassium that comes from seaweed and kelp. It’s also mined from the Great Salt Lake and deep wells in Michigan. As with phosphorous, you’d use potash with dried blood and bone meal to create your own complete organic fertilizer; or add it to garden soil that is defi cient in potassium.
MILORGANITE Maybe it’s the beer and brats, but Milorganite, an organic fertilizer made from Milwaukee sewage sludge, has been a best selling fertilizer for 75 years, after O.J. Noer found that specially treated sewage sludge had the same N, P and K levels as high grade organic fertilizers. It’s popular on golf courses, but it’s great for the entire home landscape, including vegetable gardens. The name comes from MILwaukee ORGAnic NITrogEn.
LIME Soil pH is important because plant nutrients are only available to plants when the pH is within a certain range – approximately 5.5 to 6.5. Lime is used to raise the soil pH – sometimes called ‘sweetening’ the soil – by increasing its alkalinity. It comes from either dolomitic limestone of hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide). Dolomitic limestone is much slower to work but much more long lasting than hydrated lime, which is fast acting and short lived. Like adding P and K, you add lime if the soil has been tested and proves too acidic for good plant growth.
SOIL NUTRIENTS
Pick a Letter First things first, what do those numbers and letters on the bags and bottles mean? NPK stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium – the three “macronutrients” that make up plant food. Nitrogen is responsible for lush leaf growth (the green parts of plants), while phosphorous and potassium are required for root growth, flower and fruit development, stem strength, and overall plant health. They are expressed in percentages on the fertilizer label: For instance, 10-10-10 means 10% each of N, P, and K, in that order. The remaining 70% of what’s in the bag are inert ingredients. Those strange sounding products on the shelves are simply sources of one or more of those macronutrients.
Here’s a rundown:
FISH EMULSION Don’t tell your pet goldfi sh, but fi sh emulsion is an excellent all-around garden fertilizer for your organic garden. Derived from seafood waste products (fi sh heads, entrails, and so on), it’s a complete fertilizer meaning that it contains N, P, and K. It comes in liquid form that’s water soluble, which means it works quickly and is easy to apply either to the soil or the foliage. And it’s organic. It’s one drawback? It stinks, so you may not want to use it for houseplants, although it works well on those too.
COTTONSEED MEAL Another complete organic fertilizer, cottonseed meal is what’s left over after the oil is pressed from cottonseed. The resulting cottonseed cake is used as livestock feed; however, some of it gets moldy, and that’s turned into fertilizer. Unlike fi sh emulsion cottonseed meal is insoluble in water, meaning it has to be mixed into the garden soil.
BONE MEAL Bone meal is a byproduct of the slaughterhouse. It is an organic source of phosphorous. It’s not watersoluble and needs to be tilled into the soil – you can’t just sprinkle it over the surface. It’s slow acting, but it’s also long lasting – several years at least. Generally recommended for new landscapes or if your soil has been tested and found to be low in phosphorous.
BLOOD MEAL A fantastic source of nitrogen (12%) that just so happens to also come from the slaughterhouses. It’s organic, and it’s fairly water soluble, so it is easy to use and fast-acting in the garden. There is no smell. However, it is not a complete fertilizer, just a source of nitrogen, so its usually used to quickly “green up” turf, plants and shrubs, or in conjunction with sources of phosphorus and potassium to make a complete fertilizer.
SUPER PHOSPHATE This is a nonorganic source of phosphorous that works exactly like bone meal. Triple super phosphate is also available; it contains a higher percentage of active ingredient.
POTASH Potash is an organic source of potassium that comes from seaweed and kelp. It’s also mined from the Great Salt Lake and deep wells in Michigan. As with phosphorous, you’d use potash with dried blood and bone meal to create your own complete organic fertilizer; or add it to garden soil that is defi cient in potassium.
MILORGANITE Maybe it’s the beer and brats, but Milorganite, an organic fertilizer made from Milwaukee sewage sludge, has been a best selling fertilizer for 75 years, after O.J. Noer found that specially treated sewage sludge had the same N, P and K levels as high grade organic fertilizers. It’s popular on golf courses, but it’s great for the entire home landscape, including vegetable gardens. The name comes from MILwaukee ORGAnic NITrogEn.
LIME Soil pH is important because plant nutrients are only available to plants when the pH is within a certain range – approximately 5.5 to 6.5. Lime is used to raise the soil pH – sometimes called ‘sweetening’ the soil – by increasing its alkalinity. It comes from either dolomitic limestone of hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide). Dolomitic limestone is much slower to work but much more long lasting than hydrated lime, which is fast acting and short lived. Like adding P and K, you add lime if the soil has been tested and proves too acidic for good plant growth.
Issue 182 - 4/25/05
SPRINGTIME IN THE TRI-LAKES AREA
The recent spring snows we’ve been getting have helped April turn into perfect growing conditions for wildflower and grass seed. Planting seed under about a quarter inch of top soil will greatly improve the chances of germination. Covering seed not only keeps the seed moist during germination, but it also helps reduce the consumption by birds and rodents. Try to keep the newly planted seed moist throughout the germination process. Grass is turning greener and spring is looking favorable with good moisture content. Ornamental grasses should be cut back right now to promote good growth.
At our elevation, night time temperatures are still near freezing, so as you see your perennials pop out of the ground, be sure not uncover them totally. Add a light forest mulch to ensure you keep the moisture and night time heat in the ground. Day time air temperatures were higher the last couple of weeks, making the soil temperatures also a bit warmer. You may notice the lilacs, honeysuckle and more shrubs budding and many trees right behind them. Be sure to start fertilizing lawns, hearty perennials, shrubs and trees to promote healthy growth patterns. When plants are vigorously growing, they are less apt to harbor insects and carry disease.
Use bone meal to promote flowers on Iris and Lilac. Boring insects will be flying soon and they will be invading your spruce and evergreen trees. Be sure to use liquid Sevin® for a preventive measure. Mix four tablespoons per gallon and spray to gently wet the tree branches and trunk. Start in early May and repeat this process every two or three week through June. Also, now is the time to mix Volk Oil and Dormant Oil in a spray to help prevent black spot on Aspen trees. You can spray until the buds are swelled, but it’s too late if the buds are turning into leaves. If you want to treat later, use a systemic fungicide made for ornamental trees.
Add more composted material to gardens by using a sheep, peat and compost or cow manure. Be sure to use “weed free” bags of compost to ensure you aren’t picking weeds all spring and summer. Dig the compost in and around perennials, shrubs and trees. Add a couple of inches of new top soil and compost to annual planting beds and till in about four to five inches deep. Clean out pots with water and a stiff brush. Buy some new potting soil and be sure to use a time release fertilizer that will last all growing season. Our favorite is Sunshine’s Proven Winners® brand. It work well, is easy to apply and is inexpensive. Combine Proven Winners® fertilizers with Proven Winners® plants and you will have amazing container gardens.
Start your perennials, shrubs and trees on a regular watering schedule. Observe your local water restrictions and try to water deep and less often. Your plants will develop more drought tolerance as their root system grows deeper into the soil. Set sprinkler zones to the correct timing, to ensure you are not over watering turf grasses and perennial gardens. If you are unclear on how much you should water, seek advice from your local garden center. Plant onion sets, potatoes, asparagus root and rhubarb root now. Pansies, aspens and most trees and shrubs are available and ready to plant. It’s springtime in the Tri-Lakes region. Be sure to stretch a little before diving into work and using those different muscles.
Have a safe and happy planting season.
SPRINGTIME IN THE TRI-LAKES AREA
The recent spring snows we’ve been getting have helped April turn into perfect growing conditions for wildflower and grass seed. Planting seed under about a quarter inch of top soil will greatly improve the chances of germination. Covering seed not only keeps the seed moist during germination, but it also helps reduce the consumption by birds and rodents. Try to keep the newly planted seed moist throughout the germination process. Grass is turning greener and spring is looking favorable with good moisture content. Ornamental grasses should be cut back right now to promote good growth.
At our elevation, night time temperatures are still near freezing, so as you see your perennials pop out of the ground, be sure not uncover them totally. Add a light forest mulch to ensure you keep the moisture and night time heat in the ground. Day time air temperatures were higher the last couple of weeks, making the soil temperatures also a bit warmer. You may notice the lilacs, honeysuckle and more shrubs budding and many trees right behind them. Be sure to start fertilizing lawns, hearty perennials, shrubs and trees to promote healthy growth patterns. When plants are vigorously growing, they are less apt to harbor insects and carry disease.
Use bone meal to promote flowers on Iris and Lilac. Boring insects will be flying soon and they will be invading your spruce and evergreen trees. Be sure to use liquid Sevin® for a preventive measure. Mix four tablespoons per gallon and spray to gently wet the tree branches and trunk. Start in early May and repeat this process every two or three week through June. Also, now is the time to mix Volk Oil and Dormant Oil in a spray to help prevent black spot on Aspen trees. You can spray until the buds are swelled, but it’s too late if the buds are turning into leaves. If you want to treat later, use a systemic fungicide made for ornamental trees.
Add more composted material to gardens by using a sheep, peat and compost or cow manure. Be sure to use “weed free” bags of compost to ensure you aren’t picking weeds all spring and summer. Dig the compost in and around perennials, shrubs and trees. Add a couple of inches of new top soil and compost to annual planting beds and till in about four to five inches deep. Clean out pots with water and a stiff brush. Buy some new potting soil and be sure to use a time release fertilizer that will last all growing season. Our favorite is Sunshine’s Proven Winners® brand. It work well, is easy to apply and is inexpensive. Combine Proven Winners® fertilizers with Proven Winners® plants and you will have amazing container gardens.
Start your perennials, shrubs and trees on a regular watering schedule. Observe your local water restrictions and try to water deep and less often. Your plants will develop more drought tolerance as their root system grows deeper into the soil. Set sprinkler zones to the correct timing, to ensure you are not over watering turf grasses and perennial gardens. If you are unclear on how much you should water, seek advice from your local garden center. Plant onion sets, potatoes, asparagus root and rhubarb root now. Pansies, aspens and most trees and shrubs are available and ready to plant. It’s springtime in the Tri-Lakes region. Be sure to stretch a little before diving into work and using those different muscles.
Have a safe and happy planting season.
Issue 183 - 5/2/05
PLANT FOUR SEASONS OF COLOR
Many factors make up the outdoor living room. The choices are almost endless.
Here are few things to think about when selecting plant material to enhance your landscape and add value to your home. Does your plant selection suggest a good hardiness for Colorado climate?
Challenges include extreme temperature fluctuations, poor soil conditions, low humidity and desiccating, dry winds. However, with Colorado’s high intensity light (sunny days), cool night time temperatures and very few plant diseases, we grow the most beautiful, colorful gardens in the nation.
Try to create four seasons of color. The TriLakes area has 6 months of “winter” so planning your landscape for year ‘round color is essential. Look for these characteristics when making your selections:
Spring: Spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths) Flowering ornamental trees (crabapple, pear, cherry) Flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, broom, grape holly) Perennials (creeping phlox, basket of gold alyssum, rock cress) Cool weather annuals (pansies, flowering kale, and snapdragons) Spring colored vines (silver lace)
Summer: Summer fl owering bulbs (gladiolas, dahlias, cannas) Shade trees (maples, ash, and honey locust) Flowering shrubs (rose bushes, spirea, and potentilla) For texture and color (barberry, sumac, viburnums) Perennials (Shasta daisy, daylily, coneflower, salvia) Colorful annuals (petunias, impatiens, geraniums, marigolds)
Autumn: Colored trees (aspen, maples, Canada red cherry and ash) Flowering shrubs (Rose of Sharon, butterfly bush) Autumn colored shrubs (burning bush, dogwood, viburnums, and currants) Fall berries (pyracantha, viburnums) Perennials (hardy mums, sedum’s, asters) Cool weather annuals (pansies, dianthus, dusty miller, kale) Autumn colored vines (Virginia creeper)
Winter: Evergreen trees (Colorado blue spruce, Austrian pine, Piñon pine) Junipers (groundcover, bush, upright) Specialty conifers (mugho pine, Alberta spruce yew Broadleaf evergreens (grape holly, euonymus, pyracantha) Winter highlights (red twig dogwood, yellow twig dogwood, dried plumes of ornamental grasses)
Remember to get good advise on what to plant from your local, independent garden center.
PLANT FOUR SEASONS OF COLOR
Many factors make up the outdoor living room. The choices are almost endless.
Here are few things to think about when selecting plant material to enhance your landscape and add value to your home. Does your plant selection suggest a good hardiness for Colorado climate?
Challenges include extreme temperature fluctuations, poor soil conditions, low humidity and desiccating, dry winds. However, with Colorado’s high intensity light (sunny days), cool night time temperatures and very few plant diseases, we grow the most beautiful, colorful gardens in the nation.
Try to create four seasons of color. The TriLakes area has 6 months of “winter” so planning your landscape for year ‘round color is essential. Look for these characteristics when making your selections:
Spring: Spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths) Flowering ornamental trees (crabapple, pear, cherry) Flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, broom, grape holly) Perennials (creeping phlox, basket of gold alyssum, rock cress) Cool weather annuals (pansies, flowering kale, and snapdragons) Spring colored vines (silver lace)
Summer: Summer fl owering bulbs (gladiolas, dahlias, cannas) Shade trees (maples, ash, and honey locust) Flowering shrubs (rose bushes, spirea, and potentilla) For texture and color (barberry, sumac, viburnums) Perennials (Shasta daisy, daylily, coneflower, salvia) Colorful annuals (petunias, impatiens, geraniums, marigolds)
Autumn: Colored trees (aspen, maples, Canada red cherry and ash) Flowering shrubs (Rose of Sharon, butterfly bush) Autumn colored shrubs (burning bush, dogwood, viburnums, and currants) Fall berries (pyracantha, viburnums) Perennials (hardy mums, sedum’s, asters) Cool weather annuals (pansies, dianthus, dusty miller, kale) Autumn colored vines (Virginia creeper)
Winter: Evergreen trees (Colorado blue spruce, Austrian pine, Piñon pine) Junipers (groundcover, bush, upright) Specialty conifers (mugho pine, Alberta spruce yew Broadleaf evergreens (grape holly, euonymus, pyracantha) Winter highlights (red twig dogwood, yellow twig dogwood, dried plumes of ornamental grasses)
Remember to get good advise on what to plant from your local, independent garden center.
Issue 184 - 5/9/05
MULCH 101
The advantages of using organic mulch to blanket soil around trees, shrubs, and perennial plants are many: Mulch moderates soil temperature and provides a more favorable environment for roots. It reduces evaporation of moisture, helping to conserve water. It reduces splashing from rain or irrigation water, reduces the spread of disease, and blocks the germination of many weed seeds. Beyond all that, mulch dresses up your garden, giving it a more finished look.
This article explores the kinds of bark mulches you can buy and their advantages and disadvantages. Several bark and wood mulches are available--bark nuggets, mini-nuggets, hardwood mulch, and shredded mulch. Some come in bags, some in bulk. A chief advantage of these mulches compared with other organic mulches is that they remain attractive and functional for a couple of years. That’s why gardeners mulching around trees, shrubs, and other long-lived plants are wise to choose a long-lasting bark mulch.
There is a difference between wood and bark mulch. According to the National Bark & Soil Producers Association, any mulch with “bark” in the name must be at least 85 percent bark of that named tree. A “mulch” material, on the other hand, need be only 70 percent of the named material, and it may be either bark or wood. In both cases, the remaining 15 or 30 percent can be just about anything, but it is usually wood. The primary difference is how long the mulch will last before breaking down. Wood breaks down quicker and is more susceptible to insect damage and discoloring than bark.
Decomposing wood requires nitrogen. If you add a quantity of, say, fresh sawdust to your garden soil, chances are your plants will suffer from a lack of nitrogen. In this case, the soil isn’t necessarily deficient, but the breakdown of the sawdust “induces” nitrogen deficiency in your plants. Wood and bark mulches can also induce nitrogen
deficiency, but it isn’t likely because they decompose at such a slow rate. It’s also unlikely because they are on top of the soil, not incorporated at root depth. But if this concerns you, or if your plants show the signs of nitrogen deficiency, add a 2-1-1 ratio fertilizer, such as 20-10-10, before mulching (2 to 5 pounds per 500 square feet).
Two good rules of thumb are to mulch with 3 to 4 inches of bark mulch each season and to avoid mulch layer buildup (and potential nutrient deficiency problems) by removing old layers of un-decomposed mulch before adding new layers. Coarse-textured mulches, such as shredded bark, can be applied thicker than fine-textured mulches, such as cocoa hulls. However, there are variations and exceptions related to the type of plants you’re mulching and your landscape situation.
Whatever the type of plant, it’s rarely advised to mulch more deeply than 6 inches. Mulch layers thicker than that might reduce air circulation in the soil, which will retard plant growth. Also, don’t pile mulch around the main stem of a plant where it enters the soil. The added moisture and insect haven that results could damage the plant you’re trying to help. Spread the mulch so that it covers the “dripline” of your plant.
MULCH 101
The advantages of using organic mulch to blanket soil around trees, shrubs, and perennial plants are many: Mulch moderates soil temperature and provides a more favorable environment for roots. It reduces evaporation of moisture, helping to conserve water. It reduces splashing from rain or irrigation water, reduces the spread of disease, and blocks the germination of many weed seeds. Beyond all that, mulch dresses up your garden, giving it a more finished look.
This article explores the kinds of bark mulches you can buy and their advantages and disadvantages. Several bark and wood mulches are available--bark nuggets, mini-nuggets, hardwood mulch, and shredded mulch. Some come in bags, some in bulk. A chief advantage of these mulches compared with other organic mulches is that they remain attractive and functional for a couple of years. That’s why gardeners mulching around trees, shrubs, and other long-lived plants are wise to choose a long-lasting bark mulch.
There is a difference between wood and bark mulch. According to the National Bark & Soil Producers Association, any mulch with “bark” in the name must be at least 85 percent bark of that named tree. A “mulch” material, on the other hand, need be only 70 percent of the named material, and it may be either bark or wood. In both cases, the remaining 15 or 30 percent can be just about anything, but it is usually wood. The primary difference is how long the mulch will last before breaking down. Wood breaks down quicker and is more susceptible to insect damage and discoloring than bark.
Decomposing wood requires nitrogen. If you add a quantity of, say, fresh sawdust to your garden soil, chances are your plants will suffer from a lack of nitrogen. In this case, the soil isn’t necessarily deficient, but the breakdown of the sawdust “induces” nitrogen deficiency in your plants. Wood and bark mulches can also induce nitrogen
deficiency, but it isn’t likely because they decompose at such a slow rate. It’s also unlikely because they are on top of the soil, not incorporated at root depth. But if this concerns you, or if your plants show the signs of nitrogen deficiency, add a 2-1-1 ratio fertilizer, such as 20-10-10, before mulching (2 to 5 pounds per 500 square feet).
Two good rules of thumb are to mulch with 3 to 4 inches of bark mulch each season and to avoid mulch layer buildup (and potential nutrient deficiency problems) by removing old layers of un-decomposed mulch before adding new layers. Coarse-textured mulches, such as shredded bark, can be applied thicker than fine-textured mulches, such as cocoa hulls. However, there are variations and exceptions related to the type of plants you’re mulching and your landscape situation.
Whatever the type of plant, it’s rarely advised to mulch more deeply than 6 inches. Mulch layers thicker than that might reduce air circulation in the soil, which will retard plant growth. Also, don’t pile mulch around the main stem of a plant where it enters the soil. The added moisture and insect haven that results could damage the plant you’re trying to help. Spread the mulch so that it covers the “dripline” of your plant.
Issue 185 - 5/16/04
ABOUT ANNUALS
Annuals are mostly flowering plants which live one season and then die out completely during winter. Before annuals die they have a tendency to drop seeds. The growth and flower color from these seeds can be unpredictable as most annuals are hybrids with unknown parent colors. Therefore, if you are planning an annual flower bed or border, it’s best to keep in mind that annuals will have to be replanted each year.
When selecting a site for your flowers, remember that annuals need a minimum of five or more hours of sunlight per day for successful flowering. Each garden plan as to what type of plants to plant and what color flowers to use is up to the individual gardener.
However, traditional advice regarding annual flower borders or beds consists of placing the tallest plants closest to the background or wall and then sizing the plants down to the smallest in front.
In addition, massing flower colors together is customary and can create a strong visual effect. Using only a few colors for smaller areas and more colors for larger areas will draw the eye and create a pleasing contrast.
The first year we planted annuals, we really did not have a clue as to what we were doing. We chose all different sizes and colors and pretty much planted them everywhere. It actually was quite pretty when everything grew in. However, the next year we followed more traditional lines and only used two colors, yellow and purple and the effect was also quite nice. Our annuals are located mostly in containers on the deck and in the backyard. They seem to do quite well there each year.
Soil: Annuals need well-drained soil rich with organic matter. Organic matter will need to be added to the soil every year to enrich it and to help it retain its moisture in our area.
Fertilizer: The best fertilizer for annuals is ammonium phosphate which needs to be worked into the soil at the rate of 1 lb per every 100 square feet. However, a complete lawn and garden fertilizer may be used as a substitute.
Water: When planting annuals, make sure the soil is moist but not wet. Transplant annuals later in the day so that they will be subject to less heat and water stress. Once the annuals are planted, water them to prevent wilting. After that, water them daily until they are established. Once established, watering can be tapered off to about 3 to 6 day intervals depending on soil and weather.
Maintenance: In order for most annuals to look the best, deadheading is needed. This is a process where you remove old flower heads weekly to ensure continuous bloom. If the flowers are not removed, the plants will produce seed and then die. Toward the end of summer, annuals may need to be refreshed by cutting them back. Cutting back produces new growth.
ABOUT ANNUALS
Annuals are mostly flowering plants which live one season and then die out completely during winter. Before annuals die they have a tendency to drop seeds. The growth and flower color from these seeds can be unpredictable as most annuals are hybrids with unknown parent colors. Therefore, if you are planning an annual flower bed or border, it’s best to keep in mind that annuals will have to be replanted each year.
When selecting a site for your flowers, remember that annuals need a minimum of five or more hours of sunlight per day for successful flowering. Each garden plan as to what type of plants to plant and what color flowers to use is up to the individual gardener.
However, traditional advice regarding annual flower borders or beds consists of placing the tallest plants closest to the background or wall and then sizing the plants down to the smallest in front.
In addition, massing flower colors together is customary and can create a strong visual effect. Using only a few colors for smaller areas and more colors for larger areas will draw the eye and create a pleasing contrast.
The first year we planted annuals, we really did not have a clue as to what we were doing. We chose all different sizes and colors and pretty much planted them everywhere. It actually was quite pretty when everything grew in. However, the next year we followed more traditional lines and only used two colors, yellow and purple and the effect was also quite nice. Our annuals are located mostly in containers on the deck and in the backyard. They seem to do quite well there each year.
Soil: Annuals need well-drained soil rich with organic matter. Organic matter will need to be added to the soil every year to enrich it and to help it retain its moisture in our area.
Fertilizer: The best fertilizer for annuals is ammonium phosphate which needs to be worked into the soil at the rate of 1 lb per every 100 square feet. However, a complete lawn and garden fertilizer may be used as a substitute.
Water: When planting annuals, make sure the soil is moist but not wet. Transplant annuals later in the day so that they will be subject to less heat and water stress. Once the annuals are planted, water them to prevent wilting. After that, water them daily until they are established. Once established, watering can be tapered off to about 3 to 6 day intervals depending on soil and weather.
Maintenance: In order for most annuals to look the best, deadheading is needed. This is a process where you remove old flower heads weekly to ensure continuous bloom. If the flowers are not removed, the plants will produce seed and then die. Toward the end of summer, annuals may need to be refreshed by cutting them back. Cutting back produces new growth.
Issue 186 - 5/23/05
ABOUT PERENNIALS
A perennial is any plant that lives more than one season. A perennial border often has more possibilities than an exclusively annual border. This is because perennials fl ower at different times during the season. Therefore, when planning a perennial border it is important to keep in mind not only plant height, shape, and color, but also fl owering season.
Perennial borders are often planned for continuous bloom. The best arrangements are where plants are chosen to flower at different times during the year. However, at all times, plants are fl owering and these blooms are scattered regularly throughout the border with a constancy of color and foliage.
SOIL: Good soil is essential to growing healthy perennials. As these plants will live several years, it’s important to select a site that is well drained and where the soil has been prepared with organic matter. We have our perennials planted in raised beds with a combination of 1/3 native soil, and 2/3 amended soil.
FERTILIZER: Perennials need to be fertilized regularly, but care should be taken to make sure they do not receive too much fertilizer. A 5-10-5 fertilizer is recommended. Several applications during the spring and once in later summer should be enough.
WATER: Perennials need to be watered regularly. The best method is through a drip system or soaker hose. Both of these methods allow the water to fl ow along the ground and into the root system of the plant. The sprinkler or hand held hose method allows surface leaves to become wet. Constantly wet foliage increases the chance of plant mold and disease. Our perennials are on a drip system with bubbler heads. We increase our watering schedule somewhat during summer due to the hot weather and decrease water in winter.
MAINTENANCE: Mulching the perennial area is a good idea. It helps retain moisture, keep soil temperatures constant and lower in the summer and helps control weeds. Mulches can also add nutrients to the soil. Bark, pine needles, and shredded leaves are good mulches for perennial beds. Perennials will need to be deadheaded by removing spent blossoms. Deadheading keeps perennials blooming longer and plants fresher. At the end of the summer cut back dead flowers and foliage. This will help control insects and diseases. We trim some of our larger perennials several times during the year. Once after the danger of winter frost has passed, once before the heat of summer and once again during the fall.
ABOUT PERENNIALS
A perennial is any plant that lives more than one season. A perennial border often has more possibilities than an exclusively annual border. This is because perennials fl ower at different times during the season. Therefore, when planning a perennial border it is important to keep in mind not only plant height, shape, and color, but also fl owering season.
Perennial borders are often planned for continuous bloom. The best arrangements are where plants are chosen to flower at different times during the year. However, at all times, plants are fl owering and these blooms are scattered regularly throughout the border with a constancy of color and foliage.
SOIL: Good soil is essential to growing healthy perennials. As these plants will live several years, it’s important to select a site that is well drained and where the soil has been prepared with organic matter. We have our perennials planted in raised beds with a combination of 1/3 native soil, and 2/3 amended soil.
FERTILIZER: Perennials need to be fertilized regularly, but care should be taken to make sure they do not receive too much fertilizer. A 5-10-5 fertilizer is recommended. Several applications during the spring and once in later summer should be enough.
WATER: Perennials need to be watered regularly. The best method is through a drip system or soaker hose. Both of these methods allow the water to fl ow along the ground and into the root system of the plant. The sprinkler or hand held hose method allows surface leaves to become wet. Constantly wet foliage increases the chance of plant mold and disease. Our perennials are on a drip system with bubbler heads. We increase our watering schedule somewhat during summer due to the hot weather and decrease water in winter.
MAINTENANCE: Mulching the perennial area is a good idea. It helps retain moisture, keep soil temperatures constant and lower in the summer and helps control weeds. Mulches can also add nutrients to the soil. Bark, pine needles, and shredded leaves are good mulches for perennial beds. Perennials will need to be deadheaded by removing spent blossoms. Deadheading keeps perennials blooming longer and plants fresher. At the end of the summer cut back dead flowers and foliage. This will help control insects and diseases. We trim some of our larger perennials several times during the year. Once after the danger of winter frost has passed, once before the heat of summer and once again during the fall.
Issue 187- 5/30/05
GROWING TOMATOES IN COLORADO
One of the most popular of all home garden vegetables is the tomato. Originating in Central and South America, the tomato was thought by early American colonists to be poisonous and was not recognized as a useful vegetable until the 1800s. Eaten raw or in innumerable cooked dishes, today the tomato is an almost daily part of the American diet. When grown as staked plants, tomatoes require a relatively small amount of space, yet are capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds or more of fruit per plant. Tomatoes are low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. Blossom drop can occur in early spring when daytime temperatures are warm but night temperatures fall below 55 degrees F, as well as in summer when days are above 90 degrees F.
Tomatoes can be grown on many different soil types, but a deep, loamy soil, well-drained and supplied with organic matter and nutrients is most suitable. As with most garden vegetables, tomatoes grow best in a slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8.
Tomatoes respond well to fertilizer applications, especially phosphorus. Excess nitrogen fertilizer can result in plants with extremely vigorous vine growth but little fruit production. Apply a complete fertilizer with a high second letter in the NPK ratio, such as 5-10-10, 5-20-20 or or something similar. An additional side dressing of a nitrogen fertilizer may be desirable after the first cluster of flowers have set fruit.
There are probably more tomato cultivars available to the home gardener than any other garden vegetable. When choosing cultivars, keep in mind the different ripening periods. Tomatoes are usually categorized as early, mid-season or late. Another consideration is whether the tomato cultivar you choose is determinate or indeterminate in growth habit. Determinate (D) tomato plants grow to a certain height and then stop. They also flower and set all their fruit within a relatively short period of time. This is an advantage if the tomatoes are being grown primarily for canning purposes. Indeterminate tomato plants grow, flower and set fruit over the entire growing season.
Due to their long growing season and temperature requirements, tomatoes are set out as transplants in gardens in the West. Tomatoes may be planted anytime after the last spring frost date. When purchasing tomato transplants, choose those with straight, sturdy stems about the thickness of a pencil. They should have 4 to 6 young true leaves, no blossoms or fruit and be free of insect pests and diseases. Plants in individual containers or cell packs experience little or no transplant shock and become established quickly. Tomato plants will develop roots along the stem and may be set deeply at transplanting with the first set of leaves near the soil surface. If transplants are in peat pots, remove the rim of the pot or be sure the rim is below the soil surface so that the soil ball will not dry out. A soluble starter fertilizer high in phosphorus can be applied at planting time. Use according to label directions. Plants to be staked are planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plants to be caged are planted 30 to 36 inches apart. Stakes and cages should be placed at planting time or soon after so as to not disturb the roots. Where space is limited or soil conditions poor, tomato plants can be grown in containers using a disease-free planting mix. Any container with adequate drainage is suitable.
Pay special attention to water and fertilizer needs of container-grown tomato plants. An even moisture supply is important, especially once the tomato fruits begin to develop. If the soil becomes too dry, blossom-end rot can be a problem. If too much water is applied at one time, ripening fruit may split.
GROWING TOMATOES IN COLORADO
One of the most popular of all home garden vegetables is the tomato. Originating in Central and South America, the tomato was thought by early American colonists to be poisonous and was not recognized as a useful vegetable until the 1800s. Eaten raw or in innumerable cooked dishes, today the tomato is an almost daily part of the American diet. When grown as staked plants, tomatoes require a relatively small amount of space, yet are capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds or more of fruit per plant. Tomatoes are low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. Blossom drop can occur in early spring when daytime temperatures are warm but night temperatures fall below 55 degrees F, as well as in summer when days are above 90 degrees F.
Tomatoes can be grown on many different soil types, but a deep, loamy soil, well-drained and supplied with organic matter and nutrients is most suitable. As with most garden vegetables, tomatoes grow best in a slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8.
Tomatoes respond well to fertilizer applications, especially phosphorus. Excess nitrogen fertilizer can result in plants with extremely vigorous vine growth but little fruit production. Apply a complete fertilizer with a high second letter in the NPK ratio, such as 5-10-10, 5-20-20 or or something similar. An additional side dressing of a nitrogen fertilizer may be desirable after the first cluster of flowers have set fruit.
There are probably more tomato cultivars available to the home gardener than any other garden vegetable. When choosing cultivars, keep in mind the different ripening periods. Tomatoes are usually categorized as early, mid-season or late. Another consideration is whether the tomato cultivar you choose is determinate or indeterminate in growth habit. Determinate (D) tomato plants grow to a certain height and then stop. They also flower and set all their fruit within a relatively short period of time. This is an advantage if the tomatoes are being grown primarily for canning purposes. Indeterminate tomato plants grow, flower and set fruit over the entire growing season.
Due to their long growing season and temperature requirements, tomatoes are set out as transplants in gardens in the West. Tomatoes may be planted anytime after the last spring frost date. When purchasing tomato transplants, choose those with straight, sturdy stems about the thickness of a pencil. They should have 4 to 6 young true leaves, no blossoms or fruit and be free of insect pests and diseases. Plants in individual containers or cell packs experience little or no transplant shock and become established quickly. Tomato plants will develop roots along the stem and may be set deeply at transplanting with the first set of leaves near the soil surface. If transplants are in peat pots, remove the rim of the pot or be sure the rim is below the soil surface so that the soil ball will not dry out. A soluble starter fertilizer high in phosphorus can be applied at planting time. Use according to label directions. Plants to be staked are planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plants to be caged are planted 30 to 36 inches apart. Stakes and cages should be placed at planting time or soon after so as to not disturb the roots. Where space is limited or soil conditions poor, tomato plants can be grown in containers using a disease-free planting mix. Any container with adequate drainage is suitable.
Pay special attention to water and fertilizer needs of container-grown tomato plants. An even moisture supply is important, especially once the tomato fruits begin to develop. If the soil becomes too dry, blossom-end rot can be a problem. If too much water is applied at one time, ripening fruit may split.
Issue 188 - 6/6/05
PERENNIAL GARDEN IDEAS
If trees, shrubs, and vines are the main cast in the garden, then perennials are the scene stealers. You can achieve months of long lasting color, with ever changing landscapes that include beautiful cut flowers.
Here are a few suggestions to help stimulate your imagination for planning a perennial garden.
When choosing perennials for a flower garden, select varieties with medium to long stems with a succession of bloom times. Foliage is equally important as well as flower shapes to maintain interest. Use our favorite colors and include fragrance, to add your own personal touch. Roll your landscape with small hills and boulders. Curve pathways of mulch and fl at stone to achieve a relaxing flow through your garden paradise.
Get a jump-start with some late spring and early summer bloomers that are sure to get early cuttings from your garden. Oriental Poppy, Bearded Iris, Foxglove, Lupine and Salvia will all combine well with the branches of late spring flowering shrubs and trees. Plant plenty of these “sure bets” too - Columbine, Siberian Iris, Painted Daisy, Allium and Cora Bells.
You’ll see a dazzling exhibition in mid summer when garden perennials are at their best. Non stop blooms, and growth patterns are impressive to say the least. Use Agastaches, Liatris, Delphinium, Russian Sage and Penstemon to obtain sharpness and contrast. Shasta Daisy, Purple Coneflower, Monarda, Valarian and Yarrow will soften the bouquet with rounded shaped petals.
In your new garden, remember to add fillers like ornamental grasses and boulders for contrast. Garden fillers take your eye away from seeing only flowers and soften the landscape. Use three of the five-foot “Karl Forester” ornamental grasses in a cluster, then border them in a semi-circle with smaller clumps of “Elija Blue” Fescue. The contrast is amazing when the short, blue clumps send their plume up in mid- summer against the green, bushy taller grass.
Some medium size perennials to be used in clusters are “Brilliant Red” Dianthus, Soapwort, “Goblin” Gaillardia, Gazania, and Spurge. Use them against boulders or small rock walls and ledges. Plant them in numbers, by each other to achieve the color and effect you want.
Remember to use Sedum in your hot, dry areas. They take a lot of neglect and will reward you with yellow, pink and red flowers. Sedum tolerates poor soil condition and a perfect for filling in between rock wall areas and along pathways. Acre, Dragon’s Blood, Bronze Carpet and Autumn Joy are only a few of the common Sedum. They are available in variegated, short and stubby and fern-like shapes that are as bullet proof as the most common of varieties.
Eventually summer will blend to autumn and the change in the season will bring the fall colors to your garden. Mums, Fall Asters and Autumn Sedum are great for this elevation and will provide a different crop of fl owers and color pallet.
PERENNIAL GARDEN IDEAS
If trees, shrubs, and vines are the main cast in the garden, then perennials are the scene stealers. You can achieve months of long lasting color, with ever changing landscapes that include beautiful cut flowers.
Here are a few suggestions to help stimulate your imagination for planning a perennial garden.
When choosing perennials for a flower garden, select varieties with medium to long stems with a succession of bloom times. Foliage is equally important as well as flower shapes to maintain interest. Use our favorite colors and include fragrance, to add your own personal touch. Roll your landscape with small hills and boulders. Curve pathways of mulch and fl at stone to achieve a relaxing flow through your garden paradise.
Get a jump-start with some late spring and early summer bloomers that are sure to get early cuttings from your garden. Oriental Poppy, Bearded Iris, Foxglove, Lupine and Salvia will all combine well with the branches of late spring flowering shrubs and trees. Plant plenty of these “sure bets” too - Columbine, Siberian Iris, Painted Daisy, Allium and Cora Bells.
You’ll see a dazzling exhibition in mid summer when garden perennials are at their best. Non stop blooms, and growth patterns are impressive to say the least. Use Agastaches, Liatris, Delphinium, Russian Sage and Penstemon to obtain sharpness and contrast. Shasta Daisy, Purple Coneflower, Monarda, Valarian and Yarrow will soften the bouquet with rounded shaped petals.
In your new garden, remember to add fillers like ornamental grasses and boulders for contrast. Garden fillers take your eye away from seeing only flowers and soften the landscape. Use three of the five-foot “Karl Forester” ornamental grasses in a cluster, then border them in a semi-circle with smaller clumps of “Elija Blue” Fescue. The contrast is amazing when the short, blue clumps send their plume up in mid- summer against the green, bushy taller grass.
Some medium size perennials to be used in clusters are “Brilliant Red” Dianthus, Soapwort, “Goblin” Gaillardia, Gazania, and Spurge. Use them against boulders or small rock walls and ledges. Plant them in numbers, by each other to achieve the color and effect you want.
Remember to use Sedum in your hot, dry areas. They take a lot of neglect and will reward you with yellow, pink and red flowers. Sedum tolerates poor soil condition and a perfect for filling in between rock wall areas and along pathways. Acre, Dragon’s Blood, Bronze Carpet and Autumn Joy are only a few of the common Sedum. They are available in variegated, short and stubby and fern-like shapes that are as bullet proof as the most common of varieties.
Eventually summer will blend to autumn and the change in the season will bring the fall colors to your garden. Mums, Fall Asters and Autumn Sedum are great for this elevation and will provide a different crop of fl owers and color pallet.
Issue 189 - 6/13/05
THE ESSENCE OF MULCHING
Summer is the season of mulching. The idea is to apply a protective layer around plants to reduce evaporation, prevent erosion, maintain even soil temperatures, reduce the invasion of weeds, and in the case of organic mulches, enrich the soil. Proper use of organic mulch can help to reduce soil moisture loss by up to 70 percent. Plus, the insulating ability of mulch helps keep the soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Mulch helps reduce rain splash and water runoff, and in some cases this quality reduces the spread of plant diseases and pests.
A mulch barrier makes it harder for the disease spores of powdery mildew and rust to reach the plant foliage. Cedar and redwood shavings also can discourage slugs in the garden. One of the primary uses of mulch is to suppress weed growth. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch prevents sunlight from reaching the soil surface, thereby reducing the chance of weed growth. Any weeds that do sprout are easier to hand-pull. As organic mulches breakdown and decay, they form a rich, dark organic soil amendment called humus. This eventually releases nutrients, enhances the ability for micronutrients to be released, and improves the soil structure. You can enhance the beauty of the landscape using mulches. There is a wide range of materials, colors, and textures available to suit your gardening needs.
Bark - Bark can be found in large, medium, and small sizes and is long lasting. It decomposes slowly and may not be of as much value as some other organic sources in improving the soil. It has a tendency to blow away in strong winds and float away if flooding occurs. Slugs find bark a nice haven to hide underneath during the day. Shredded
Bark and Shavings - These make excellent materials for mulching around flower beds, trees, and shrubs. Many of the materials stay together well and form a nicely knit barrier for moisture retention and weed prevention. Compost - Besides being a superior soil conditioner, compost makes an excellent mulch. Apply in the spring and summer; then work some into the soil in fall.
Leaves - This is probably the least expensive mulch for home gardeners, but it does have disadvantages. Some leaves are difficult to apply evenly; for example, cottonwood and other waxy leaves mat together and take years to decompose. Shredding leaves before using them as mulch is helpful and will expedite their decomposition for soil conditioning later on.
Pine Needles - If you have evergreens in your landscape, you can recycle many of the needles that fall around the base of pine and spruce trees. They provide a uniform covering that stays in place. In our Rocky Mountain region, the concern about acidity in dried pine needles is a minor concern since most soils are alkaline in lower elevations. It takes years and years of accumulations and decomposition to appreciably change soil pH by using pine needles alone. Pine needles are not recommended around perennials and other deciduous shrubs.
Inorganic Mulches - Gravel, stones, pebbles, crushed volcanic rock, and pea gravel are good mulches to accent the landscape. They are not used to improve soil structure or fertility, but can be aesthetically striking. These materials will not require replenishing as frequently as organic mulches.
THE ESSENCE OF MULCHING
Summer is the season of mulching. The idea is to apply a protective layer around plants to reduce evaporation, prevent erosion, maintain even soil temperatures, reduce the invasion of weeds, and in the case of organic mulches, enrich the soil. Proper use of organic mulch can help to reduce soil moisture loss by up to 70 percent. Plus, the insulating ability of mulch helps keep the soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Mulch helps reduce rain splash and water runoff, and in some cases this quality reduces the spread of plant diseases and pests.
A mulch barrier makes it harder for the disease spores of powdery mildew and rust to reach the plant foliage. Cedar and redwood shavings also can discourage slugs in the garden. One of the primary uses of mulch is to suppress weed growth. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch prevents sunlight from reaching the soil surface, thereby reducing the chance of weed growth. Any weeds that do sprout are easier to hand-pull. As organic mulches breakdown and decay, they form a rich, dark organic soil amendment called humus. This eventually releases nutrients, enhances the ability for micronutrients to be released, and improves the soil structure. You can enhance the beauty of the landscape using mulches. There is a wide range of materials, colors, and textures available to suit your gardening needs.
Bark - Bark can be found in large, medium, and small sizes and is long lasting. It decomposes slowly and may not be of as much value as some other organic sources in improving the soil. It has a tendency to blow away in strong winds and float away if flooding occurs. Slugs find bark a nice haven to hide underneath during the day. Shredded
Bark and Shavings - These make excellent materials for mulching around flower beds, trees, and shrubs. Many of the materials stay together well and form a nicely knit barrier for moisture retention and weed prevention. Compost - Besides being a superior soil conditioner, compost makes an excellent mulch. Apply in the spring and summer; then work some into the soil in fall.
Leaves - This is probably the least expensive mulch for home gardeners, but it does have disadvantages. Some leaves are difficult to apply evenly; for example, cottonwood and other waxy leaves mat together and take years to decompose. Shredding leaves before using them as mulch is helpful and will expedite their decomposition for soil conditioning later on.
Pine Needles - If you have evergreens in your landscape, you can recycle many of the needles that fall around the base of pine and spruce trees. They provide a uniform covering that stays in place. In our Rocky Mountain region, the concern about acidity in dried pine needles is a minor concern since most soils are alkaline in lower elevations. It takes years and years of accumulations and decomposition to appreciably change soil pH by using pine needles alone. Pine needles are not recommended around perennials and other deciduous shrubs.
Inorganic Mulches - Gravel, stones, pebbles, crushed volcanic rock, and pea gravel are good mulches to accent the landscape. They are not used to improve soil structure or fertility, but can be aesthetically striking. These materials will not require replenishing as frequently as organic mulches.
Issue 190 - 6/20/05
LADY BEETLES
Not everything that creeps, crawls, and fl utters into your landscape and garden is an unwelcome pest or enemy. Many creatures that visit help to keep insect populations in check. Now is a great time to learn about the many insects and nature’s other little helpers. Get to know the friendly creatures before reaching for the bug killer. You will soon learn to appreciate their contributions to a healthy yard and garden. One of my favorite insect is lady beetles.
Better known as ladybugs, lady beetles are among the most widely recognized beneficial insects. Visit some of your local garden outlets and you will find convergent lady beetles for sale in packets of 500 or more. These are the classic reddish-orange beetles with bright black spots. Lady beetles are voracious eaters and will consume large quantities of soft-bodied insects including aphids, small caterpillars, and scales.
Some gardeners bring insect samples to us only to discover that they have mistakenly killed “ugly creatures” after finding them on the foliage and stems of evergreens. Upon closer examination, we learn that the creatures they’ve killed are the larval stages of the lady beetles. The immature or larval stage of the lady beetle looks very different than the adult. One-quarter to one-half inch long, the black and orange larvae resemble miniature orange and black Gila monsters. You’ll want these tiny larvae around because they will eat hundreds of aphids per day. The moral to this scenario: Don’t reach for the bug killer until you’ve identified the creature in your garden. Pesticides kill lots more than you think and will upset the natural balance in your garden.
If you purchase lady beetles, open the container and sprinkle a little water over them. Then close the container back up and keep them in the refrigerator until you’re ready to release them. The best time to turn them loose is late evening, preferably after a rainstorm. Find a spot where there is a food source, preferably aphids, but pollen and nectar from flowers will work temporarily.
If you follow these steps you can attract beneficial insects to your yard:
LADY BEETLES
Not everything that creeps, crawls, and fl utters into your landscape and garden is an unwelcome pest or enemy. Many creatures that visit help to keep insect populations in check. Now is a great time to learn about the many insects and nature’s other little helpers. Get to know the friendly creatures before reaching for the bug killer. You will soon learn to appreciate their contributions to a healthy yard and garden. One of my favorite insect is lady beetles.
Better known as ladybugs, lady beetles are among the most widely recognized beneficial insects. Visit some of your local garden outlets and you will find convergent lady beetles for sale in packets of 500 or more. These are the classic reddish-orange beetles with bright black spots. Lady beetles are voracious eaters and will consume large quantities of soft-bodied insects including aphids, small caterpillars, and scales.
Some gardeners bring insect samples to us only to discover that they have mistakenly killed “ugly creatures” after finding them on the foliage and stems of evergreens. Upon closer examination, we learn that the creatures they’ve killed are the larval stages of the lady beetles. The immature or larval stage of the lady beetle looks very different than the adult. One-quarter to one-half inch long, the black and orange larvae resemble miniature orange and black Gila monsters. You’ll want these tiny larvae around because they will eat hundreds of aphids per day. The moral to this scenario: Don’t reach for the bug killer until you’ve identified the creature in your garden. Pesticides kill lots more than you think and will upset the natural balance in your garden.
If you purchase lady beetles, open the container and sprinkle a little water over them. Then close the container back up and keep them in the refrigerator until you’re ready to release them. The best time to turn them loose is late evening, preferably after a rainstorm. Find a spot where there is a food source, preferably aphids, but pollen and nectar from flowers will work temporarily.
If you follow these steps you can attract beneficial insects to your yard:
- Lay off the use of pesticides at the sign of a bug in your garden. Many pesticides kill benefi cial insects as well as the pests.
- Provide a source of water in the garden. This can be a small birdbath, shallow pond, or small dish fi lled with gravel and water.
- Have a spot for shelter from wind and rain. A row of tall perennials, shrubbery, or ornamental grasses provides a buffer zone for insect predators to hide and later come out to hunt down the “bad guys.”
- Grow plants that are a source of nectar and pollen for our beneficial insects. These will attract them to the garden and give them something to eat while they wait for the insect prey to arrive or hatch from eggs. Some of the common herbs, such as dill, fennel, lemon balm, and spearmint, are plants that beneficial insects will visit. Many wildflowers, daisies, cosmos, and yarrow are also favored by many beneficial insects.
Issue 191 - 6/27/05
TIPS ON GROWING GRAPES
Whether your goal is the perfect bottle of pinot or simply a refreshing afternoon snack, the advice is the same: success starts from the ground up. You can grow grapes for both wine and fresh fruit in little space. Here are some of techniques.
Soils that are ideal for grapes don’t have to be ultra-fertile. Soil can have only 12 to 18 inches of topsoil; below that anything works. Grapes love this “heirloom soil.” Remove the suckers that grow at the base of the vines. If left on the plant, suckers rob the grapes of nourishment. Most of the time, the suckers can be pulled off, but you may have to use shears. Also prune back the top spindly growth of the grapevine. Topping the grapevines will encourage more vegetation and enhance flavor in the grapes.
Whether you buy grapes from a nursery or mail order sources, chances are you’ll probably be buying at least two-year-old rootstock. Then, it may be another two years before you get fruit to set well. If you see fruit setting the first year, remove it. By doing this, you’ll promote root development and a healthier plant. The following year, you can harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Grapevines require support to mature properly and to allow for easy access for ongoing care and harvesting. There are many types of supports that you can use ranging from small trellises to fancy arbors. One common and effective trellis method is to string wires between poles. Sandwich poles in the vineyard with two strands of wires running down the rows. Use three sets of double wires approximately 12 inches apart for the vines. With this trellising system, all you have to do is periodically tuck the vines underneath the wires. Pull them up underneath to hold them up so the sunlight gets to the vines where the main part of the grapes are growing.
A source of irrigation is necessary for your vineyard. Give each plant about 45 gallons of water during the growing season--or about four to fi ve gallons every other week. Drip irrigation is the ideal way to water homegrown grapes. Drip irrigation systems are inexpensive and easy to install, and they don’t require a lot of water pressure. You can run lines along the wire trellis, or you can run them on the ground and direct water to the root zone even more.
To conserve moisture and suppress weeds, mulch with a light layer of grass clippings or bark mulch. Drip irrigation also helps to prevent fungal diseases; however, as a routine precaution, spray organic sulfur onto the vines every couple of weeks during the growing season. To help guard against mildew, create plenty of space between vines for better air circulation.
Whether you are producing grapes in Napa Valley for some of the fi nest wines in the world or table grapes in El Paso County for munching straight off the vine, the methods for growing grapes are much the same.
TIPS ON GROWING GRAPES
Whether your goal is the perfect bottle of pinot or simply a refreshing afternoon snack, the advice is the same: success starts from the ground up. You can grow grapes for both wine and fresh fruit in little space. Here are some of techniques.
Soils that are ideal for grapes don’t have to be ultra-fertile. Soil can have only 12 to 18 inches of topsoil; below that anything works. Grapes love this “heirloom soil.” Remove the suckers that grow at the base of the vines. If left on the plant, suckers rob the grapes of nourishment. Most of the time, the suckers can be pulled off, but you may have to use shears. Also prune back the top spindly growth of the grapevine. Topping the grapevines will encourage more vegetation and enhance flavor in the grapes.
Whether you buy grapes from a nursery or mail order sources, chances are you’ll probably be buying at least two-year-old rootstock. Then, it may be another two years before you get fruit to set well. If you see fruit setting the first year, remove it. By doing this, you’ll promote root development and a healthier plant. The following year, you can harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Grapevines require support to mature properly and to allow for easy access for ongoing care and harvesting. There are many types of supports that you can use ranging from small trellises to fancy arbors. One common and effective trellis method is to string wires between poles. Sandwich poles in the vineyard with two strands of wires running down the rows. Use three sets of double wires approximately 12 inches apart for the vines. With this trellising system, all you have to do is periodically tuck the vines underneath the wires. Pull them up underneath to hold them up so the sunlight gets to the vines where the main part of the grapes are growing.
A source of irrigation is necessary for your vineyard. Give each plant about 45 gallons of water during the growing season--or about four to fi ve gallons every other week. Drip irrigation is the ideal way to water homegrown grapes. Drip irrigation systems are inexpensive and easy to install, and they don’t require a lot of water pressure. You can run lines along the wire trellis, or you can run them on the ground and direct water to the root zone even more.
To conserve moisture and suppress weeds, mulch with a light layer of grass clippings or bark mulch. Drip irrigation also helps to prevent fungal diseases; however, as a routine precaution, spray organic sulfur onto the vines every couple of weeks during the growing season. To help guard against mildew, create plenty of space between vines for better air circulation.
Whether you are producing grapes in Napa Valley for some of the fi nest wines in the world or table grapes in El Paso County for munching straight off the vine, the methods for growing grapes are much the same.
Issue 192 - 7/4/05
BUILDING A NEW GARDEN
Building a new garden is an exciting and rewarding experience. The success of your new garden is greatly increased by following a few guidelines and basic principals. Plants you choose play a key role in determining how full your garden will appear right now and what it may look like in the near future. Below are a few suggestions to help you along the way.
In selecting a site for your new garden, consider the amount of sun or shade exposure your plants will get. Observe the new site by watching the morning, mid-day and evening light. In Colorado, five to six hours of sun is considered full sun, two to five hours is thought of as sun to partial shade and less than two hours, more shade. Most shade-loving plants desire less than one hour of our hot, dry climate. Use plants that thrive in proper light conditions to ensure success.
The single, most important thing you can give your new garden is good soil to grow in. Plants live in various soil types but will thrive if you amend your soil with a composted material. The type of soil you have will determine which compost you will use. Clay soils need to be broken up to provide more air to the plant roots, sandy and rocky soils need to retain more moisture in the root zone. Consult with your local garden center for information on the many types of soil amendments and which ones are best suited for your location.
Consider height and color of flowers or foliage when selecting plants for your new site. Set taller plants towards the rear or off to the sides of the garden if it backs up to a fence or structure. Place tall plants in the center of the garden if the site can be viewed from all directions. Use raised beds to achieve an even greater height or select plants that grow tall such as vines and ornamental grasses. Some variegated foliage mixed in with flowering perennials offer a unique look. Mix wide leaf and slim, narrow leaf plants to achieve texture and depth. Pick colors that compliment one another as you would if decorating in your home. A splash of purple or blue next to yellows and oranges make beautiful combinations.
Choose plants that use the same water consumption to help make watering easy. Most succulents and sedums are drought tolerant plants that require little water and should be planted in the same areas. Provide drip lines or efficient sprinklers on timers to avoid over watering and wasting our precious water resources. Simple, battery-operated timers and drip irrigation supplies are available at most garden centers to help you convert sprinkler lines to drip irrigation easily.
Use natural bark mulches to help keep moisture levels up and weeds in control. By adding three or four inches of a finer style forest mulch, you will save on the amount of watering needed to maintain plants at the root zone. Use small, medium or larger cedar bark mulches around perennials, shrubs and trees to help control unwanted garden weeds and to make pulling weeds easy.
Add flare to your new garden by using a piece of statuary, birdbath, unusual rock or other natural products as a focal point to compliment plants. A small fountain is easy to maintain - the running water is soothing to the ears and it will attract birds and wildlife to your garden. Too many rocks will add more heat to your garden, so be aware of increased evaporation rates.
Be sure to think of the future and know how large your plants will grow as they become mature. If you over plant, you can always move those that are crowding others to a new garden and start again.
BUILDING A NEW GARDEN
Building a new garden is an exciting and rewarding experience. The success of your new garden is greatly increased by following a few guidelines and basic principals. Plants you choose play a key role in determining how full your garden will appear right now and what it may look like in the near future. Below are a few suggestions to help you along the way.
In selecting a site for your new garden, consider the amount of sun or shade exposure your plants will get. Observe the new site by watching the morning, mid-day and evening light. In Colorado, five to six hours of sun is considered full sun, two to five hours is thought of as sun to partial shade and less than two hours, more shade. Most shade-loving plants desire less than one hour of our hot, dry climate. Use plants that thrive in proper light conditions to ensure success.
The single, most important thing you can give your new garden is good soil to grow in. Plants live in various soil types but will thrive if you amend your soil with a composted material. The type of soil you have will determine which compost you will use. Clay soils need to be broken up to provide more air to the plant roots, sandy and rocky soils need to retain more moisture in the root zone. Consult with your local garden center for information on the many types of soil amendments and which ones are best suited for your location.
Consider height and color of flowers or foliage when selecting plants for your new site. Set taller plants towards the rear or off to the sides of the garden if it backs up to a fence or structure. Place tall plants in the center of the garden if the site can be viewed from all directions. Use raised beds to achieve an even greater height or select plants that grow tall such as vines and ornamental grasses. Some variegated foliage mixed in with flowering perennials offer a unique look. Mix wide leaf and slim, narrow leaf plants to achieve texture and depth. Pick colors that compliment one another as you would if decorating in your home. A splash of purple or blue next to yellows and oranges make beautiful combinations.
Choose plants that use the same water consumption to help make watering easy. Most succulents and sedums are drought tolerant plants that require little water and should be planted in the same areas. Provide drip lines or efficient sprinklers on timers to avoid over watering and wasting our precious water resources. Simple, battery-operated timers and drip irrigation supplies are available at most garden centers to help you convert sprinkler lines to drip irrigation easily.
Use natural bark mulches to help keep moisture levels up and weeds in control. By adding three or four inches of a finer style forest mulch, you will save on the amount of watering needed to maintain plants at the root zone. Use small, medium or larger cedar bark mulches around perennials, shrubs and trees to help control unwanted garden weeds and to make pulling weeds easy.
Add flare to your new garden by using a piece of statuary, birdbath, unusual rock or other natural products as a focal point to compliment plants. A small fountain is easy to maintain - the running water is soothing to the ears and it will attract birds and wildlife to your garden. Too many rocks will add more heat to your garden, so be aware of increased evaporation rates.
Be sure to think of the future and know how large your plants will grow as they become mature. If you over plant, you can always move those that are crowding others to a new garden and start again.
Issue 193 - 7/11/05
XERISCAPE MISCONCEPTIONS
Understanding the merits of low water landscaping (called Xeriscape gardening) is not always clear. Besides the obvious monthly water bill reduction and saving our valuable water source on the Front Range, it can provide a beautiful landscape with flourishing flowers. I find myself often dispelling some misconceptions about Xeriscape and I’d like to share the following delusions with you.
Remember, to get a water-wise garden it will take a little work. The benefits are lower water bills, saving a valuable resource and establishing a beautiful garden.
XERISCAPE MISCONCEPTIONS
Understanding the merits of low water landscaping (called Xeriscape gardening) is not always clear. Besides the obvious monthly water bill reduction and saving our valuable water source on the Front Range, it can provide a beautiful landscape with flourishing flowers. I find myself often dispelling some misconceptions about Xeriscape and I’d like to share the following delusions with you.
- Xeriscape is rock and gravel - Although gravel and rock may be appropriate in specific areas such as steep slope conditions where plant root growth can not take hold, it is generally believed to work against the basic principals of Xeriscaping. It increases soil temperature, air temperature and water runoff.
- Xeriscape means no watering - Actually, low water comes to mind here and using basic water wise principals. Use drip irrigation to deep water plants and shrubs. Keep sprinkler systems from spraying sidewalks and driveways. Water early in the morning to prevent evaporation.
- You can’t have a lawn in Xeriscape - Keeping your turf grass to a manageable size is one of the biggest ways to eliminate unnecessary water use. Avoid “golf course size” lawns by planting grass seed in areas you will use or where you need aesthetic appeal. Plant xeric turf grasses such as tall fescue. Remember - the most drought tolerant lawns are planted with seed.
- Xeriscape is ugly and has no flowers - There are lots of low water flowers available at your local garden center. Some annuals that come to mind are zinnia, bachelor’s button and California poppy. Perennial favorites are Russian sage, yarrow, catmint, coneflower, daylilly, and delphinium. Bulbs used are crocus, tulips and iris. There’s lots of color and excitement in all of the plants listed above!
- Xeriscape requires no soil preparation - The single, most important thing you can do to your xeriscape garden is amend the soil. Sand drains off quickly and clay soils hold too much moisture. Adding composted material when you plant is imperative to achieve good results. Rule of thumb is about 1/3 of the composted material when you plant and adding 1 1/4” of top dressing per year tilled into the soil.
- Xeriscape requires no maintenance - Mulching, weeding and maintaining your plants are necessary to keep a healthy garden. Use organic mulches as a top dressing to provide moisture retention. Weeds rob your plants from the valuable resources they need so pull ‘em out! Inspect your plants for bugs and diseases regularly and treat problems using advise from your local garden center.
Remember, to get a water-wise garden it will take a little work. The benefits are lower water bills, saving a valuable resource and establishing a beautiful garden.
Issue 194 - 7/18/05
OH MY, OH DEER
Hot, dry, summer weather, especially in the West, has deer heading down the hills, out of the woods, and into backyards where the carefully tended garden becomes a delectable snack for hungry, thirsty animals. This year, deer are moving out of the parched foothills in search of food and water in yards, gardens and decorative ponds. If they’ve found a shady spot with food, they’ll keep coming back. Catching a glimpse of a deer is usually a treat, but when they’re in your garden, it is anything but.
The open lawns and gardens of suburbia are perfect for deer, providing ample food and freedom from natural predators as their population continues to grow on the Front Range. There are a variety of safe methods to keep deer from dining and dashing in your garden. Here are some suggestions, with information on products that can help.
Unfortunately, a fence is the only way I know to keep deer out of the yard. Some repellents work, but their effectiveness seems to wear off or the deer get used to them. There are now many types of fence available from suppliers that are more or less unobtrusive and can be strung between trees and other wild areas without the necessity, expense and intrusion of a standard fence. We’ve used willow fencing on several occasions and have found them to be quite effective. Willow comes in a five and seven foot high size. Seven foot is usually tall enough to keep the deer out of the yard or away from gardens. It’s natural looking, easy to work with and extremely durable.
There are a couple of ways to keep deer from eating the garden. In the short term, plant things they don’t like. Rather than fight the deer, gardeners have simply stopped planting some of the deer favorites, like tulips and delphiniums, because they simply disappear. Tomatoes, related to the toxic nightshade plant, should not appeal to deer, but gardeners have reported their tomato plants clipped and picked clean. Deer love tulips, laurel, forsythia, Japanese yew, crocus and pansies. They are less likely to eat English holly, yucca, daisies, tiger lilies, yarrow, iris, geraniums, narcissus and dahlias. Deer typically stay away from aromatic, fuzzy plants. Use them as a natural fencing. In the long run, protect the individual plants with temporary fencing or cages. Keeping deer out of an established yard is complicated. Some repellents work, yet others don’t seem to much. Remember that deer are going to eat anything if they are hungry enough.
Some gardeners swear by feather meal — spread loosely on the ground in generous portions throughout the garden. Feather meal has a very strong aroma for a length of time, so try to keep it away from the neighbors down wind. My favorite, Liquid Fence, comprised mostly of egg solids and garlic, is a nontoxic solution. It is a spray that is applied about once a month and is extremely effective. Most remedies work for a time, but only until the scent wears off or gets washed away with irrigation water or rain.
Remember, it’s not so much man invading the animal’s environment as much as it is the deer preferring mans. Be adaptable and have a sense of humor. You can reduce deer damage by using some of the previous suggestions, but having a sense of humor will alleviate the stress when small amounts of deer damage does occur.
OH MY, OH DEER
Hot, dry, summer weather, especially in the West, has deer heading down the hills, out of the woods, and into backyards where the carefully tended garden becomes a delectable snack for hungry, thirsty animals. This year, deer are moving out of the parched foothills in search of food and water in yards, gardens and decorative ponds. If they’ve found a shady spot with food, they’ll keep coming back. Catching a glimpse of a deer is usually a treat, but when they’re in your garden, it is anything but.
The open lawns and gardens of suburbia are perfect for deer, providing ample food and freedom from natural predators as their population continues to grow on the Front Range. There are a variety of safe methods to keep deer from dining and dashing in your garden. Here are some suggestions, with information on products that can help.
Unfortunately, a fence is the only way I know to keep deer out of the yard. Some repellents work, but their effectiveness seems to wear off or the deer get used to them. There are now many types of fence available from suppliers that are more or less unobtrusive and can be strung between trees and other wild areas without the necessity, expense and intrusion of a standard fence. We’ve used willow fencing on several occasions and have found them to be quite effective. Willow comes in a five and seven foot high size. Seven foot is usually tall enough to keep the deer out of the yard or away from gardens. It’s natural looking, easy to work with and extremely durable.
There are a couple of ways to keep deer from eating the garden. In the short term, plant things they don’t like. Rather than fight the deer, gardeners have simply stopped planting some of the deer favorites, like tulips and delphiniums, because they simply disappear. Tomatoes, related to the toxic nightshade plant, should not appeal to deer, but gardeners have reported their tomato plants clipped and picked clean. Deer love tulips, laurel, forsythia, Japanese yew, crocus and pansies. They are less likely to eat English holly, yucca, daisies, tiger lilies, yarrow, iris, geraniums, narcissus and dahlias. Deer typically stay away from aromatic, fuzzy plants. Use them as a natural fencing. In the long run, protect the individual plants with temporary fencing or cages. Keeping deer out of an established yard is complicated. Some repellents work, yet others don’t seem to much. Remember that deer are going to eat anything if they are hungry enough.
Some gardeners swear by feather meal — spread loosely on the ground in generous portions throughout the garden. Feather meal has a very strong aroma for a length of time, so try to keep it away from the neighbors down wind. My favorite, Liquid Fence, comprised mostly of egg solids and garlic, is a nontoxic solution. It is a spray that is applied about once a month and is extremely effective. Most remedies work for a time, but only until the scent wears off or gets washed away with irrigation water or rain.
Remember, it’s not so much man invading the animal’s environment as much as it is the deer preferring mans. Be adaptable and have a sense of humor. You can reduce deer damage by using some of the previous suggestions, but having a sense of humor will alleviate the stress when small amounts of deer damage does occur.
Issue 195 - 7/25/05
HELP PLANTS BEAT THE HEAT
Record setting, high temperatures over the past couple of weeks have left us wiping our brow and hoping for cooler weather. The promised afternoon rain storms have mostly missed us, but have provided us some cloud cover for brief periods of relief. We humans suffer in the heat, making us tired, thirsty, worn-out and less likely able to perform well at our daily tasks. Your plants react the same way.
How do you help your plants beat the heat?
Here’s a couple of summertime hints:
WATER PLANTS EARLY IN THE MORNING If your plants are showing distress in the afternoon from the hot sun, many times a good drink in the morning helps. Saturate and water deep to ensure the plants get adequate water to the root system. By watering early, you avoid added evaporation losses from your sprinkler system and help conserve one of our precious resources.
FERTILIZE YOUR PLANTS The heat robs your annuals and perennials of their color as your plants use the energy towards the leaves and stalks to survive the extreme temperatures. They need to be fed to keep up with the demand in able to perform well through the hot months. If you used a good time release fertilizer around the root system when you planted this year or as a top dressing, you may have all of your bases covered. If not, then a quick application of a water soluble bloom booster will help the plants gain some strength and provide the beautiful blooms you expect – even through the hot months.
ADD ADDITIONAL MULCH TO YOUR FLOWER BEDS Shrubs and around trees. By adding mulch, you help the plants retain more of the moisture and reduce transpiration from the hot afternoon sun. As a rule, the finer the mulch, the more moisture will be retained. I use Soil pep around most of the perennials and smaller shrubs, but step up to medium-sized cedar bark mulch around most of the larger shrubs and trees. Apply mulch about three or four inches deep around the drip line of the trees and shrubs and about two or three inches deep around most perennials.
CLEAN UP IN THE GARDEN You know it’s going to get hot, so start early in the morning and work for short periods of time. Trim dead or dying leaves from perennials. Dead-head the blooms as soon as they are “spent” to ensure the growth energy returns to the plant to make new blossoms. Pluck those nasty weeds that rob the water, fertilizer and space your plants need to use to grow healthy, strong and vigorously.
Help your plants beat the heat. Conserve as you garden. Be a part of the “green industry”.
HELP PLANTS BEAT THE HEAT
Record setting, high temperatures over the past couple of weeks have left us wiping our brow and hoping for cooler weather. The promised afternoon rain storms have mostly missed us, but have provided us some cloud cover for brief periods of relief. We humans suffer in the heat, making us tired, thirsty, worn-out and less likely able to perform well at our daily tasks. Your plants react the same way.
How do you help your plants beat the heat?
Here’s a couple of summertime hints:
WATER PLANTS EARLY IN THE MORNING If your plants are showing distress in the afternoon from the hot sun, many times a good drink in the morning helps. Saturate and water deep to ensure the plants get adequate water to the root system. By watering early, you avoid added evaporation losses from your sprinkler system and help conserve one of our precious resources.
FERTILIZE YOUR PLANTS The heat robs your annuals and perennials of their color as your plants use the energy towards the leaves and stalks to survive the extreme temperatures. They need to be fed to keep up with the demand in able to perform well through the hot months. If you used a good time release fertilizer around the root system when you planted this year or as a top dressing, you may have all of your bases covered. If not, then a quick application of a water soluble bloom booster will help the plants gain some strength and provide the beautiful blooms you expect – even through the hot months.
ADD ADDITIONAL MULCH TO YOUR FLOWER BEDS Shrubs and around trees. By adding mulch, you help the plants retain more of the moisture and reduce transpiration from the hot afternoon sun. As a rule, the finer the mulch, the more moisture will be retained. I use Soil pep around most of the perennials and smaller shrubs, but step up to medium-sized cedar bark mulch around most of the larger shrubs and trees. Apply mulch about three or four inches deep around the drip line of the trees and shrubs and about two or three inches deep around most perennials.
CLEAN UP IN THE GARDEN You know it’s going to get hot, so start early in the morning and work for short periods of time. Trim dead or dying leaves from perennials. Dead-head the blooms as soon as they are “spent” to ensure the growth energy returns to the plant to make new blossoms. Pluck those nasty weeds that rob the water, fertilizer and space your plants need to use to grow healthy, strong and vigorously.
Help your plants beat the heat. Conserve as you garden. Be a part of the “green industry”.
Issue 196 - 8/1/05
PLAN A BLOOMING GARDEN
In early July your garden begins to look rather drab. By the time fall arrives, autumn foliage provides the only bit of color in the landscape. Don’t despair! Spruce up your dull, dreary garden by designing a long-blooming one. With a bit of planning, you can have eye-catching flowerbeds and borders that are colorful in spring, summer and fall. You can easily remedy a garden that is attractive for only one season by creating a plan that includes plants that bloom at different times, thereby providing a succession of color. Begin by making three lists of plants: ones that bloom in spring, ones that bloom in summer, and ones that bloom in fall. To help you with this task, consult tables that list the bloom dates of common perennials and annuals. You can find these tables in many gardening books or ask your garden center.
The next step is to become familiar with the growing needs of the plants you listed. Find out the water requirements of the plants so you can group plants with similar watering needs together. Learn how much sunlight the plants prefer: full sun, partial shade or full shade. Determine which plants are hardy in your area by checking their USDA hardiness zone ratings. Find out the mature size of the plants. You want to avoid the common mistake of underestimating how big a plant will be in two or three years.
Check to see if the plants are finicky about soil conditions. Most gardeners find they need to amend the soil with compost because their soil is heavy clay that doesn’t drain well, or perhaps it is sandy and doesn’t retain moisture. The soil’s pH, its alkalinity or acidity, occasionally may make a site unsuitable for specific plants. You will also want to consider the color of the flowers. Some gardeners select a color palette and keep it throughout the seasons, while others shift to different palettes. Pastels are a popular springtime option: pink, lavender, baby blue and pale yellow. Because hot, intense sunlight in Colorado tends to wash out pastel hues, vivid colors are often a better choice for summer. Bright red, deep purple and sunny yellow work well. Rich harvest colors such as gold, rust, orange and bronze generally predominate in fall. Use white flowers and plants with gray or silver foliage to create a smooth transition between color schemes. Armed with the information you have gathered, you are now ready to make some decisions about which plants to use and where to plant them. One approach is to create vignettes. Well-designed groupings of plants, or vignettes, are more appealing than isolated plants scattered around the landscape.
Select a spot in your yard where you would like to have a group of spring-blooming plants. Arrange three or five different types of spring-blooming plants that have the same cultural needs in a cluster, as if you were creating a bouquet. Use enough plants of each type to provide impact from a distance. The arrangement will be more attractive if you vary the shapes of plants. You can do this by incorporating mounding plants, trailing plants and tall, narrow plants in the grouping. The shape and foliage of the plants should form an appealing combination both when the plants are in bloom and out of bloom. Select plants whose flowers and leaves contrast in size and shape. Diversity adds interest.
It is essential that the colors of the flowers are harmonious together. Create additional spring-blooming vignettes in other spots around the yard using some of the same plants and introducing others. Repeat this process in various locations using summer-blooming plants and then fall-blooming plants. Keep in mind that you don’t need to limit yourself to using only perennials. Annuals, shrub roses, ornamental grasses and flowering shrubs are terrific elements to include in the vignettes. Lastly, while you’re creating your plan you may want to consider adding more flowerbeds and borders or enlarging existing ones. In response to Colorado’s dry climate and periods of drought, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the amount of water used in their yards. Replacing sections of thirsty lawn with flowerbeds and borders is one solution.
Planning a garden does require time and effort. However, the results make that time and effort worthwhile. You will have created a beautiful, long blooming garden.
PLAN A BLOOMING GARDEN
In early July your garden begins to look rather drab. By the time fall arrives, autumn foliage provides the only bit of color in the landscape. Don’t despair! Spruce up your dull, dreary garden by designing a long-blooming one. With a bit of planning, you can have eye-catching flowerbeds and borders that are colorful in spring, summer and fall. You can easily remedy a garden that is attractive for only one season by creating a plan that includes plants that bloom at different times, thereby providing a succession of color. Begin by making three lists of plants: ones that bloom in spring, ones that bloom in summer, and ones that bloom in fall. To help you with this task, consult tables that list the bloom dates of common perennials and annuals. You can find these tables in many gardening books or ask your garden center.
The next step is to become familiar with the growing needs of the plants you listed. Find out the water requirements of the plants so you can group plants with similar watering needs together. Learn how much sunlight the plants prefer: full sun, partial shade or full shade. Determine which plants are hardy in your area by checking their USDA hardiness zone ratings. Find out the mature size of the plants. You want to avoid the common mistake of underestimating how big a plant will be in two or three years.
Check to see if the plants are finicky about soil conditions. Most gardeners find they need to amend the soil with compost because their soil is heavy clay that doesn’t drain well, or perhaps it is sandy and doesn’t retain moisture. The soil’s pH, its alkalinity or acidity, occasionally may make a site unsuitable for specific plants. You will also want to consider the color of the flowers. Some gardeners select a color palette and keep it throughout the seasons, while others shift to different palettes. Pastels are a popular springtime option: pink, lavender, baby blue and pale yellow. Because hot, intense sunlight in Colorado tends to wash out pastel hues, vivid colors are often a better choice for summer. Bright red, deep purple and sunny yellow work well. Rich harvest colors such as gold, rust, orange and bronze generally predominate in fall. Use white flowers and plants with gray or silver foliage to create a smooth transition between color schemes. Armed with the information you have gathered, you are now ready to make some decisions about which plants to use and where to plant them. One approach is to create vignettes. Well-designed groupings of plants, or vignettes, are more appealing than isolated plants scattered around the landscape.
Select a spot in your yard where you would like to have a group of spring-blooming plants. Arrange three or five different types of spring-blooming plants that have the same cultural needs in a cluster, as if you were creating a bouquet. Use enough plants of each type to provide impact from a distance. The arrangement will be more attractive if you vary the shapes of plants. You can do this by incorporating mounding plants, trailing plants and tall, narrow plants in the grouping. The shape and foliage of the plants should form an appealing combination both when the plants are in bloom and out of bloom. Select plants whose flowers and leaves contrast in size and shape. Diversity adds interest.
It is essential that the colors of the flowers are harmonious together. Create additional spring-blooming vignettes in other spots around the yard using some of the same plants and introducing others. Repeat this process in various locations using summer-blooming plants and then fall-blooming plants. Keep in mind that you don’t need to limit yourself to using only perennials. Annuals, shrub roses, ornamental grasses and flowering shrubs are terrific elements to include in the vignettes. Lastly, while you’re creating your plan you may want to consider adding more flowerbeds and borders or enlarging existing ones. In response to Colorado’s dry climate and periods of drought, many gardeners are looking for ways to reduce the amount of water used in their yards. Replacing sections of thirsty lawn with flowerbeds and borders is one solution.
Planning a garden does require time and effort. However, the results make that time and effort worthwhile. You will have created a beautiful, long blooming garden.
Issue 197 - 8/8/05
TO DEADHEAD OR NOT TO DEADHEAD: THAT IS THE QUESTION
Increase the enjoyment and value of your flowering plants by investigating the potential of deadheading. The process of removing the faded/spent flowers before they set seed with the goal of forcing a plant to re-bloom is called deadheading. Some say deadheading is a way of fooling Mother Nature. In order to decide if deadheading is right for your flowers, consider the normal life cycle of a flowering plant, the goal of deadheading and the proper techniques to follow.
If left alone, a flowering plant would put fort a bloom. The blossom would then be fertilized and set seed. In this complete reproduction task, the plant expends its energy and nutrients to set seed instead of producing more flowers. Annuals are intended to grow, flower, set seed and die.
The main goal of deadheading is to produce more blooms on a plant. This goal extends the value of your investment on annuals and perennials, and beautifies your flower gardens by removing the dried up flowers. In addition, deadheading your flowering plants conserves the plant energy, and removes hiding places and food for insects which often become pests in our garden. It can also reduce the potential for fungal diseases by permitting minor improvements in air circulation.
Not all plants will bloom a second time even after deadheading them (e.g., poppies). You still may want to snap off the spent blooms to save the plant’s energy, to make the plants look neater and to help the plant be stronger and produce nicer blooms the next season.
Deadheading plants is not difficult. You’ll want to plan to remove the seed head before the seeds start to develop-before the florets begin to fall. Simply snap off any faded or dead flowers between the fingers and thumb. Make sure the stems are broken cleanly. If the stems are tough or if there is danger of hurting the plant as the dead flowers are removed, you may want to use scissors, pruners or a penknife. For plants that get long and gangly, like the blue salvia, you want to cut the entire plant back in half. While it will look “bald” at first, the new growth will rush right out of the plant and fill it in.
Fortunately, some annuals, such as begonias and impatiens are “self-cleaning.” They drop their spent flowers off and continue to bloom for a long season. Impatiens do, however, naturally get leggy when it is hot and wet. These plants benefit by being cut back in half. See the attached chart for information on specific varieties.
While deadheading roses, keep in mind that a bloom stem can be no larger in diameter than the stem from which it grows. Thus, the subsequent blooms will be proportionate in size to the stem from which they emerge. This means the further down the stem you cut, the larger the bloom stem and subsequent buds will become. Keep in mind that the larger the bloom stem, the longer it will take for the rose to re-bloom. Make your cut at an angle away from and slightly above the node.
No matter what kind of plant you are working on, do not remove any foliage, even if it starts yellowing. The nutrients for next year’s blooms are still being transported to the roots at this stage.
While deadheading your flowering plants may be a way of fooling Mother Nature, it is also a way to give your garden a longer blooming season. It does not appear to hurt your plants. In fact, it conserves their energy and often provides stronger more beautiful plants the following season.
TO DEADHEAD OR NOT TO DEADHEAD: THAT IS THE QUESTION
Increase the enjoyment and value of your flowering plants by investigating the potential of deadheading. The process of removing the faded/spent flowers before they set seed with the goal of forcing a plant to re-bloom is called deadheading. Some say deadheading is a way of fooling Mother Nature. In order to decide if deadheading is right for your flowers, consider the normal life cycle of a flowering plant, the goal of deadheading and the proper techniques to follow.
If left alone, a flowering plant would put fort a bloom. The blossom would then be fertilized and set seed. In this complete reproduction task, the plant expends its energy and nutrients to set seed instead of producing more flowers. Annuals are intended to grow, flower, set seed and die.
The main goal of deadheading is to produce more blooms on a plant. This goal extends the value of your investment on annuals and perennials, and beautifies your flower gardens by removing the dried up flowers. In addition, deadheading your flowering plants conserves the plant energy, and removes hiding places and food for insects which often become pests in our garden. It can also reduce the potential for fungal diseases by permitting minor improvements in air circulation.
Not all plants will bloom a second time even after deadheading them (e.g., poppies). You still may want to snap off the spent blooms to save the plant’s energy, to make the plants look neater and to help the plant be stronger and produce nicer blooms the next season.
Deadheading plants is not difficult. You’ll want to plan to remove the seed head before the seeds start to develop-before the florets begin to fall. Simply snap off any faded or dead flowers between the fingers and thumb. Make sure the stems are broken cleanly. If the stems are tough or if there is danger of hurting the plant as the dead flowers are removed, you may want to use scissors, pruners or a penknife. For plants that get long and gangly, like the blue salvia, you want to cut the entire plant back in half. While it will look “bald” at first, the new growth will rush right out of the plant and fill it in.
Fortunately, some annuals, such as begonias and impatiens are “self-cleaning.” They drop their spent flowers off and continue to bloom for a long season. Impatiens do, however, naturally get leggy when it is hot and wet. These plants benefit by being cut back in half. See the attached chart for information on specific varieties.
While deadheading roses, keep in mind that a bloom stem can be no larger in diameter than the stem from which it grows. Thus, the subsequent blooms will be proportionate in size to the stem from which they emerge. This means the further down the stem you cut, the larger the bloom stem and subsequent buds will become. Keep in mind that the larger the bloom stem, the longer it will take for the rose to re-bloom. Make your cut at an angle away from and slightly above the node.
No matter what kind of plant you are working on, do not remove any foliage, even if it starts yellowing. The nutrients for next year’s blooms are still being transported to the roots at this stage.
While deadheading your flowering plants may be a way of fooling Mother Nature, it is also a way to give your garden a longer blooming season. It does not appear to hurt your plants. In fact, it conserves their energy and often provides stronger more beautiful plants the following season.
Issue 198 - 8/15/05
GROWING HERBS FROM CUTTINGS
Many herbs—including oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage—are best propagated for indoor growing by taking a cutting from an existing outdoor plant. You’ll need about six weeks for the roots to get established, so soon is a good time to start. To do it, snip off a 4-inch section, measured back from the tip. Strip off the lower leaves and stick the stem into moist, soilless mix, such as perlite and/or vermiculite. To ensure good humidity, cover with glass or clear plastic, and keep the growing medium-moist.
Before the first fall frost (while the weather is still on the mild side), start moving your potted herb plants toward their winter home. Instead of bringing them directly inside, put them in a bright, cool “transitional zone,” such as a garage, entryway, or enclosed porch, for a few weeks. Once they’ve acclimated, move them to an area with lots of sun (south-facing windows are brightest, followed by east or west views). But protect them from heat and dryness. Most herbs prefer daytime temperatures of about 65 to 70 degrees F, although they can withstand climbs into the 70s. It’s especially important that night temperatures drop at least 10 degrees—down into the 50's would be better—to simulate outdoor conditions. With the exception of basil, they’ll even do well with occasional dips into the 40's. Place them outside on mild days, and give them regular baths to wash off dust.
Most herbs like to be well watered but don’t like wet feet. That’s why good drainage is important. Water when the top of the container feels dry, or learn to judge the moisture in the soil by the weight of the pot. Add sand or vermiculite to the potting soil to ensure good drainage. Learn to juggle water, light, and temperature. An herb in a clay pot in a south facing window will need more water than one in a plastic pot in an east, or west, facing window. If the light is low, keep the temperature low.
Choose the soil for your indoor herbs carefully. A good commercial potting soil is fine, or for a deluxe mix, blend one part potting soil with one part compost and one part vermiculite, perlite, or sand (or a mixture of all three). Resist the temptation to use disease- and pest-prone garden soil. And when you pot up garden-grown plants, remove as much of the garden soil as possible without damaging the roots.
Keep such transplants separate from your other houseplants while you’re gradually acclimating them to the indoors. If you see insects on a plant during this “quarantine,” leave it outside. If, despite such defenses, your indoor plants do come under insect attack, help the herbs stay healthy by providing the correct mix of light and temperature, and give them regular baths. A plant weakened by hot, dry indoor conditions is even more susceptible to spider mite, whitefl y, or aphid damage than a healthy one. If you choose to use soap sprays to control these pests, remember that the wet spray must come in contact with the insect to be effective. Spray in the evening (and never in bright sunlight) to prevent rapid drying, and wash off residues the next day (or before eating the leaves). Don’t spray very young seedlings with soap!
Hold back on the water and fertilizer through December, but when the days start getting longer in mid-January, feed them with liquid seaweed or compost. Even potted soil gets compacted as you water it, so cultivate it with a little fork, then top dress it with compost. February is usually a great month for indoor plants because of all the bright light. By March, they are starting to get buds, and in April, be sure to put them outside on a warm day. Then it won’t be long before the herbs—and you—are ready to move back to the garden.
GROWING HERBS FROM CUTTINGS
Many herbs—including oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage—are best propagated for indoor growing by taking a cutting from an existing outdoor plant. You’ll need about six weeks for the roots to get established, so soon is a good time to start. To do it, snip off a 4-inch section, measured back from the tip. Strip off the lower leaves and stick the stem into moist, soilless mix, such as perlite and/or vermiculite. To ensure good humidity, cover with glass or clear plastic, and keep the growing medium-moist.
Before the first fall frost (while the weather is still on the mild side), start moving your potted herb plants toward their winter home. Instead of bringing them directly inside, put them in a bright, cool “transitional zone,” such as a garage, entryway, or enclosed porch, for a few weeks. Once they’ve acclimated, move them to an area with lots of sun (south-facing windows are brightest, followed by east or west views). But protect them from heat and dryness. Most herbs prefer daytime temperatures of about 65 to 70 degrees F, although they can withstand climbs into the 70s. It’s especially important that night temperatures drop at least 10 degrees—down into the 50's would be better—to simulate outdoor conditions. With the exception of basil, they’ll even do well with occasional dips into the 40's. Place them outside on mild days, and give them regular baths to wash off dust.
Most herbs like to be well watered but don’t like wet feet. That’s why good drainage is important. Water when the top of the container feels dry, or learn to judge the moisture in the soil by the weight of the pot. Add sand or vermiculite to the potting soil to ensure good drainage. Learn to juggle water, light, and temperature. An herb in a clay pot in a south facing window will need more water than one in a plastic pot in an east, or west, facing window. If the light is low, keep the temperature low.
Choose the soil for your indoor herbs carefully. A good commercial potting soil is fine, or for a deluxe mix, blend one part potting soil with one part compost and one part vermiculite, perlite, or sand (or a mixture of all three). Resist the temptation to use disease- and pest-prone garden soil. And when you pot up garden-grown plants, remove as much of the garden soil as possible without damaging the roots.
Keep such transplants separate from your other houseplants while you’re gradually acclimating them to the indoors. If you see insects on a plant during this “quarantine,” leave it outside. If, despite such defenses, your indoor plants do come under insect attack, help the herbs stay healthy by providing the correct mix of light and temperature, and give them regular baths. A plant weakened by hot, dry indoor conditions is even more susceptible to spider mite, whitefl y, or aphid damage than a healthy one. If you choose to use soap sprays to control these pests, remember that the wet spray must come in contact with the insect to be effective. Spray in the evening (and never in bright sunlight) to prevent rapid drying, and wash off residues the next day (or before eating the leaves). Don’t spray very young seedlings with soap!
Hold back on the water and fertilizer through December, but when the days start getting longer in mid-January, feed them with liquid seaweed or compost. Even potted soil gets compacted as you water it, so cultivate it with a little fork, then top dress it with compost. February is usually a great month for indoor plants because of all the bright light. By March, they are starting to get buds, and in April, be sure to put them outside on a warm day. Then it won’t be long before the herbs—and you—are ready to move back to the garden.
Issue 199 - 8/22/05
HIGH COUNTRY CHILI COOK OFF
High Country Home & Garden is accepting entries for the second annual High Country Chili Cook Off to be held on Saturday, September 10. We’re closing the street between Second and Third to accommodate the contestants cooking while the public tastes some of the finest chili in the region. Last year the air was fi lled with amazing aromas as 28 contestants cooked their best chili recipes and delivered samples to a celebrity judge’s panel to determine who made the best chili. Prizes were awarded for fi rst, second and third places and the general public voted for the people’s choice award.
Tasting tickets were sold to the public to raise money for the Tri-Lakes Cares Building Fund, our local food bank. With these ticket sales and the entry fees were able to donate $1000! What is a Chili Cook Off? Picture this …. At 8:00am. Contestants arrive and check in at the judge’s booth. There is a small line under the awning at check in as the early birds shake hands and reacquaint themselves with their competitors. The contestants are anxious to get started, so after they get their space assigned, they pull their vehicle in, unload grills, propane tanks, tables and tents and prepare their site for the day. There is camaraderie between contestants as signs, backdrops and various creative decorating of their 12 x 12 spaces begins. By 9:00 most contestants have started cutting and mixing their secret ingredients in large pots that are waiting to be put on their stoves. Vegetables, sauces, spices line the tables. One booth has something hidden underneath a small tablecloth, perhaps the secret to the winning recipe. Around 10:00, tents of all colors line the street as aromas start filling the air, music is in the background and contestants are intermingling, discussing different recipes and techniques used, but only divulging so much, leaving the secrets lie in the chili, not in conversation. By 11:00 chili is cooking, contestants are settled in, they’ve scoped out the competition and are preparing chili tasting samples to hand out to the anxious ticket holders.
The officials are making the rounds to view the contestant’s booth, making sure the rules have been followed in an orderly fashion. The street gets busier and the crowd thickens. The occasional announcement over the speakers “Attention all contestants ... just a reminder …. Make sure you get your peoples choice ballots in to the judges tent.” A small amount of silence, then music and laughter fills the air again. High noon and all is well. The street is packed with people, the contestants are handing out samples for tickets and the general public is voting for the “People’s Choice” award. The fish bowl at the judge’s tent is near the brim already with the votes and one official is pre-counting the tally to stay ahead of the hundreds of voters. Officials review with every contestant the proper order of submitting their samples to the judges. The judges arrive by 12:30 and are introduced to the contestants. At 12:45 the first announcement to get samples ready for the judges is made.
“1:00 p.m. has arrived” is heard over the speakers “Contestants #1 through #10 bring your numbered containers of your chili to the judge’s tent by 1:15” Samples are brought up to the tent and the judging begins. The judges pace themselves as they know it will take an entire hour to judge all of the chili. They scrutinize, sniff, taste and evaluate every sample, then mark down their score only to move on to another sample. Yum, it doesn’t get much better than that. The big moment has arrived. The awards are being announced. “Ladies and gentlemen, the judges have their final votes tallied and the 1st Place winner of the 2005 High Country Chili Cook- Off is….” The crowd listens in anticipation. Cheers and congratulations are passed around the contestants as all of the awards are given out. The rest of the afternoon is filled with laughter and joy as the crowd enjoy more chili and mingle with the contestants to congratulate the winners and give their personal view on what chili they thought was best. There was a good crowd – a lot of fun was had by all – and a great fund raiser was a success. Join us this September 10th to experience the day yourself!
HIGH COUNTRY CHILI COOK OFF
High Country Home & Garden is accepting entries for the second annual High Country Chili Cook Off to be held on Saturday, September 10. We’re closing the street between Second and Third to accommodate the contestants cooking while the public tastes some of the finest chili in the region. Last year the air was fi lled with amazing aromas as 28 contestants cooked their best chili recipes and delivered samples to a celebrity judge’s panel to determine who made the best chili. Prizes were awarded for fi rst, second and third places and the general public voted for the people’s choice award.
Tasting tickets were sold to the public to raise money for the Tri-Lakes Cares Building Fund, our local food bank. With these ticket sales and the entry fees were able to donate $1000! What is a Chili Cook Off? Picture this …. At 8:00am. Contestants arrive and check in at the judge’s booth. There is a small line under the awning at check in as the early birds shake hands and reacquaint themselves with their competitors. The contestants are anxious to get started, so after they get their space assigned, they pull their vehicle in, unload grills, propane tanks, tables and tents and prepare their site for the day. There is camaraderie between contestants as signs, backdrops and various creative decorating of their 12 x 12 spaces begins. By 9:00 most contestants have started cutting and mixing their secret ingredients in large pots that are waiting to be put on their stoves. Vegetables, sauces, spices line the tables. One booth has something hidden underneath a small tablecloth, perhaps the secret to the winning recipe. Around 10:00, tents of all colors line the street as aromas start filling the air, music is in the background and contestants are intermingling, discussing different recipes and techniques used, but only divulging so much, leaving the secrets lie in the chili, not in conversation. By 11:00 chili is cooking, contestants are settled in, they’ve scoped out the competition and are preparing chili tasting samples to hand out to the anxious ticket holders.
The officials are making the rounds to view the contestant’s booth, making sure the rules have been followed in an orderly fashion. The street gets busier and the crowd thickens. The occasional announcement over the speakers “Attention all contestants ... just a reminder …. Make sure you get your peoples choice ballots in to the judges tent.” A small amount of silence, then music and laughter fills the air again. High noon and all is well. The street is packed with people, the contestants are handing out samples for tickets and the general public is voting for the “People’s Choice” award. The fish bowl at the judge’s tent is near the brim already with the votes and one official is pre-counting the tally to stay ahead of the hundreds of voters. Officials review with every contestant the proper order of submitting their samples to the judges. The judges arrive by 12:30 and are introduced to the contestants. At 12:45 the first announcement to get samples ready for the judges is made.
“1:00 p.m. has arrived” is heard over the speakers “Contestants #1 through #10 bring your numbered containers of your chili to the judge’s tent by 1:15” Samples are brought up to the tent and the judging begins. The judges pace themselves as they know it will take an entire hour to judge all of the chili. They scrutinize, sniff, taste and evaluate every sample, then mark down their score only to move on to another sample. Yum, it doesn’t get much better than that. The big moment has arrived. The awards are being announced. “Ladies and gentlemen, the judges have their final votes tallied and the 1st Place winner of the 2005 High Country Chili Cook- Off is….” The crowd listens in anticipation. Cheers and congratulations are passed around the contestants as all of the awards are given out. The rest of the afternoon is filled with laughter and joy as the crowd enjoy more chili and mingle with the contestants to congratulate the winners and give their personal view on what chili they thought was best. There was a good crowd – a lot of fun was had by all – and a great fund raiser was a success. Join us this September 10th to experience the day yourself!
Issue 200 - 8/29/05
DIVIDING BEARDED IRIS
Bearded Iris are tall, elegant additions to the fl ower border, but they are also relatively high maintenance. You can help cut down on the incidence of soft rot and borer damage through regular division of the iris rhizomes every 2-3 years. This will also keep bearded iris performing and blooming at its best. If left undivided, the fl owering will decrease and the rhizome will be subject to more pests and damage. You can divide bearded iris anytime after flowering through August. Using a pitch fork, carefully dig around the bearded iris plant, starting about a foot away from the outer most edge. Try not to pierce the rhizome with the fork.
Work the fork around the bearded iris plant and gently lift the rhizomes out of the soil. Since bearded iris are grown at soil level, this is one of the easiest plants to lift. Once you have the bearded iris rhizomes lifted, shake off any loose soil. Rinse off any remaining soil with a garden hose. If you don’t have space to do this in the garden, it is sometimes easier and neater to do it on a tarp. Rising off the soil will allow you to better see the rhizomes and roots, to inspect for damage. Once the rhizomes are cleaned, you can separate the individual rhizomes from one another. Don’t break them apart, just loosen the already separate sections. Once the rhizomes are clean, cut the foliage to about 6 inches. Cutting the fan of leaves connected to a lifted iris rhizome makes the plant easier to work with when dividing and replanting and helps prevent water loss while the plant is becoming re-established. The fan does not need to be cut symmetrically. Some leaves may be damaged and will need to be cut shorter than 6 inches. Now you are ready to divide the rhizomes. You will see natural places to make a split, such as where the rhizome has forked. Study the rhizome and make sure each section you have chosen will wind up being at least 3 inches long and will have healthy roots growing from it.
Then go ahead and make a clean cut through the rhizome, using a same sharp, disinfected knife or pruner. The final step is re-planting your bearded iris. Choose a full sun location and start by digging a shallow hole that will be wide enough to spread out the rhizome’s roots. Make the hole about 2-3 inches deep, then create a mound in the center of the hole to just about soil level. Soak the soil in the planting hole. Then take a rhizome division and place it in the center of the mound. Spread the roots around and down the mound. Cover the division with soil, being careful not to bury the rhizome with more than an inch or 2 of soil. Remember, it will probably settle a bit lower and bearded iris will rot and certainly won’t bloom, if buried too deeply. Water well and do so weekly until you start to notice new growth. Then enjoy for another couple of years. TIP: Add phosphate (0-18-0) to your iris in late September and again in late March to increase blooms and color.
DIVIDING BEARDED IRIS
Bearded Iris are tall, elegant additions to the fl ower border, but they are also relatively high maintenance. You can help cut down on the incidence of soft rot and borer damage through regular division of the iris rhizomes every 2-3 years. This will also keep bearded iris performing and blooming at its best. If left undivided, the fl owering will decrease and the rhizome will be subject to more pests and damage. You can divide bearded iris anytime after flowering through August. Using a pitch fork, carefully dig around the bearded iris plant, starting about a foot away from the outer most edge. Try not to pierce the rhizome with the fork.
Work the fork around the bearded iris plant and gently lift the rhizomes out of the soil. Since bearded iris are grown at soil level, this is one of the easiest plants to lift. Once you have the bearded iris rhizomes lifted, shake off any loose soil. Rinse off any remaining soil with a garden hose. If you don’t have space to do this in the garden, it is sometimes easier and neater to do it on a tarp. Rising off the soil will allow you to better see the rhizomes and roots, to inspect for damage. Once the rhizomes are cleaned, you can separate the individual rhizomes from one another. Don’t break them apart, just loosen the already separate sections. Once the rhizomes are clean, cut the foliage to about 6 inches. Cutting the fan of leaves connected to a lifted iris rhizome makes the plant easier to work with when dividing and replanting and helps prevent water loss while the plant is becoming re-established. The fan does not need to be cut symmetrically. Some leaves may be damaged and will need to be cut shorter than 6 inches. Now you are ready to divide the rhizomes. You will see natural places to make a split, such as where the rhizome has forked. Study the rhizome and make sure each section you have chosen will wind up being at least 3 inches long and will have healthy roots growing from it.
Then go ahead and make a clean cut through the rhizome, using a same sharp, disinfected knife or pruner. The final step is re-planting your bearded iris. Choose a full sun location and start by digging a shallow hole that will be wide enough to spread out the rhizome’s roots. Make the hole about 2-3 inches deep, then create a mound in the center of the hole to just about soil level. Soak the soil in the planting hole. Then take a rhizome division and place it in the center of the mound. Spread the roots around and down the mound. Cover the division with soil, being careful not to bury the rhizome with more than an inch or 2 of soil. Remember, it will probably settle a bit lower and bearded iris will rot and certainly won’t bloom, if buried too deeply. Water well and do so weekly until you start to notice new growth. Then enjoy for another couple of years. TIP: Add phosphate (0-18-0) to your iris in late September and again in late March to increase blooms and color.
Woody's World Continued on Next Page |
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